Alpharetta pub working to attain ‘gastropub’ status

Service: casual and friendly

Best dishes: Ahi tuna, pulled pork tacos, Thai beef lettuce wraps

Vegetarian selections: salads, butternut squash ravioli, pizza

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Price range: $$-$$$

Credit cards: all major credit cards

Hours: noon-10 p.m. Sundays, 11 a.m-11 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays

Children: fine

Parking: a few self-park spots, mostly valet

Reservations: no

Wheelchair access: yes

Smoking: no

Noise level: very loud

Patio: yes

Takeout: yes

Address, phone: 102 S. Main St., Alpharetta. 770-752-1888.

Website: www.fhfoodtradinggroup.com

Last week, I wrote about gastro’cue, a term inspired by the gastropub. This week, we’re back to discussing that original locale where we expect to find an emphasis on beer selection and upscale, cheffy takes on bar fare to pair with those brews.

We’re checking in on Salt Factory, a self-proclaimed gastropub that opened its first location in Roswell as Red Salt by F&H Food Trading Group. But this time, we’re visiting the new Alpharetta venue that opened in November. Predicting a revitalization of the historic Alpharetta area, the restaurant group chose to expand out of its Canton Street home base where it has three (soon to be four) restaurants.

While the menus at both Salt Factory locations are identical, the space, clientele and energy all diverge. The original Roswell joint packs in the walking neighbors nearly shoulder to shoulder each evening in a decidedly adult and very “Cheers”-esque setting. By contrast, the Alpharetta pub, set between a Taco Bell and Publix, fades into the suburban sprawl and offers additional elbow room and an environment more accepting of families’ underaglings.

Perhaps because I’m not part of the historic Roswell neighborhood circle or perhaps because I like a little breathing space and hassle-free parking options, I much prefer this new Alpharetta location of Salt Factory. But both are built around the beer selection, which has the variety you’d expect of a gastropub and a nice representation of local craft beers. The accompanying provisions range from modern gastrofare with dishes like sumptuous Thai beef lettuce wraps to a cardboard pizza that qualifies as bare-bones pub grub. You’ll find the best bites are the lighter ones that you might not typically associate with traditional bar food — ones befitting a gastropub.

Each of the restaurants owned by F&H highlights a different beverage. At Little Alley Steak, it’s brown spirits, and at 1920 Tavern (formerly Opulent), it’s champagne. And of course at Salt Factory, it’s always been about the beer. So, let’s go all in and really make it about the beer, weaving it into the entire dining experience.

Salt Factory could maximize the impact of its beverage program by offering beer pairing suggestions for items like the five-peppercorn-crusted Ahi tuna ($27.95). The dish has a flurry of bold ingredients competing for attention with a perky wasabi mashed potato mound, piquant bok choy kimchee shreds and a too-heavy lemon grass butter sauce. Despite the warring flavors of the dish, the thin slices of peppery tuna could be your go-to here.

Also ask for pairing suggestions for those Thai beef lettuce wraps ($10.95), an appetizer worthy of the gastropub moniker. This juicy bowl of marinated beef, sharp red onions, mint and basil comes with a plate of crispy-fresh layers of lettuce leaves and tall sprigs of cilantro. This bears the mark of a chef, and dishes like these make me perk up and pay attention to this kitchen.

Also try the pulled pork tacos ($10.95), which are surprisingly light for strings of pork, grated cheddar and smoky jalapeno slaw piled into crispy shells. You might also dig into the Tuscan kale and pecorino salad ($6.95), with small strips of chewable kale sweetened with golden raisins and a citrus vinaigrette.

And for the heavier fare, those beer pairings might help us overlook execution and recipe shortcomings. Some choices such as the shepherd’s pie ($15.95) just beg for a cold one. Perhaps a Left Hand Nitro ($7) milk stout? The lamb pie thick with demi glace, veggies and a hefty layer of cheddar potatoes is desperately in need of the restaurant’s namesake and could use the lift that a brew could bring.

Similarly, some dishes are just made to go with a beer. Take the fish and chips ($17.95), full of moist white flakes of fish and heavy with finger-licking grease. Same story for the Louisiana eggrolls ($9.95), so bad they’re good. The crisped rolls come horizontally split, revealing a minced mixture of chicken, andouille sausage crumbles and charred kernels of corn all melded in a gob of cheddar meltage.

But even a beer won’t elevate the lackluster steakhouse burger ($12.95). Simply adding an egg on top doesn’t sell this one. Not with seemingly unseasoned beef and wonky bacon. Skip this sandwich.

Ditto for the pizza. I’m lured into trying The Factory pizza ($12.95), studded with my favorite tangy San Marzano tomatoes, fat rounds of salami and gooey buffalo mozzarella. Just about any crust should work as a conduit for these toppings. Just about, but not quite — not when it tastes like a paper product and might have come from your grocer’s freezer.

Just choose both your location and your meal wisely. For me, it’s the Alpharetta location. If it played to its strengths, Salt Factory could become just the kind of gastropub it claims to be.