THE VERY FIRST Fadó opened in 1996 on Peachtree Street, in the heart of Buckhead, and quickly became a landmark of the lively Village bar scene. Nowadays, Atlanta-based Fadó Pubs Inc. operates 14 Fadó Irish pubs and restaurants all across the country. But the latest, opened in March (just in time for St. Patrick's Day) at 279 Buckhead Ave., retains a sort of flagship status — primarily because it replaces the original Fadó, razed late last year to make way for the Streets of Buckhead redevelopment.
IRISH EXPO: Overall, the new pub feels a little like it suddenly sprang up from the void. And that notion is exaggerated as you approach the main entrance, where the Streets project has wrought a desolate urban landscape around a gaping hole in the ground. But inside, soaring ceilings and streaming light create an airy atmosphere that's decidedly different from the former pub's murky confines. The trilevel space includes a mezzanine and stairs that climb to a breezy roof deck and auxiliary bar. Everywhere, there's the dizzying exposition of Irish-themed furnishings and artifacts, created in Dublin by the Irish Pub Company, and lots of intricate millwork and whimsical faux finishes. But the literal center of the place is the rambling main bar area, appointed with 40 shiny, Euro-style chrome taps.
UPDATED GRUB: The updated pub grub menu has tasty new appetizers and bar snacks — especially the blini-like smoked salmon bites, served on crisp boxty (Irish potato cakes), with onions and a horseradish sauce; and the boxty-covered corned beef rolls, with mustard sauce and cabbage salad. Other good bets include miniburger sliders, flavored with Smithwick's Ale and topped with grilled onions and American cheese, and any of the other boxty dishes, such as grilled steak. Some of the traditional favorites are less satisfying. Fish and chips and shepherd's pie, both of which make hearty meals, come off as rather tired and bland. But the traditional Irish breakfast — a groaning mass of eggs, Irish sausages and bacon, black pudding, white pudding, grilled tomatoes, mushrooms and brown bread — has its own decadent appeal. That's particularly true when it's served up with a pint, and there's a football match on television.
PUB CULTURE: Despite a look that conjures images of Disney's Epcot and a steady stream of singles, after-work imbibers and conventioneers, Fadó can still lay claim to Atlanta's most authentic Irish pub culture. That's bolstered by a host of regulars who come out on Mondays for traditional Irish music sessions and on weekends to watch English Premier League action. And though the beer list has expanded to include imports such as Duvel and American craft brews from the likes of Sweetwater and Victory, Fadó remains the quintessential spot for a proper pint of Guinness Stout. A cadre of friendly, well-trained bartenders see to that, while keeping the party flowing for everyone.
Fadó Atlanta, 279 Buckhead Ave., 404-841-0066, www.fadoirishpub.com
HOURS: Kitchen open 11 a.m.-midnight Mondays-Sundays; bar menu after 10 p.m.; open as early as 6 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays for special sporting events; brunch served until 2:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays; bar open late
PRICES: Appetizers, soups and salads, $6.95-$13.95; sandwiches and entrees $9.75-$15.95
CREDIT CARDS: All major
RESERVATIONS: Sundays-Thursdays
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Smoked salmon bites, boxty, Irish breakfast
PARKING: Valet, street and lot
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: Smoking on patio
NOISE LEVEL: Moderate to high
TAKEOUT: Yes
VERDICT: Atlanta's pioneering Irish pub rises up in a new Buckhead location.
