Find out which Smyrna chef's food you need to get on your plate right now

It'd be easy to dismiss a restaurant located in a bland-looking outdoor mall.

Chef Andre Gomez, "one of the most genuinely gifted practitioners of warm hospitality I’ve witnessed," writes AJC food critic Wyatt Williams, serves up dishes inspired by the cuisine in his native Puerto Rico, including a pressed cohiba, fried tostones, ribs and conch fritters. It amounts to "a much better restaurant than it needs to be, more fun and generous, more interesting, more delicious," Williams writes.