Tuna, like marlin and swordfish, is a “cow that swims” fish, marine and meaty at the same time. As such, it pairs well with more stalwart wines; whites, of course, but also lighter reds such as pinot noir or some Loire reds.
Because there’s a fair amount of acid in this dish (lime juice, red wine vinegar, tomato), be sure whatever wine you choose has a correlative spine of acidity. If you choose a low-acid wine, it will flub when up against the preparation. And keep tannin out of the picture altogether. It’s for a different kind of meat.
Tuna Steaks with Tomato, Corn and Avocado Salad
Prepare a grill or heat broiler. In a bowl, combine 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, 1 tablespoon brown sugar and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and freshly ground pepper. Mix and brush on both sides of 4 tuna steaks. Whisk together 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 1/4 red onion, minced, and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir in 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved, and 1 cup cooked corn kernels. Gently stir in 2 avocados, peeled and diced. Set salad aside. Place tuna on grill or under broiler; cook as desired, about 2 minutes per side for medium. Serve tuna with the salad. Makes: 4 servings
The wines
• 2013 Justin Vineyards & Winery Viognier, Paso Robles, Calif.: In a leaner style than most viogniers, almost rieslinglike for its incision and taut acidity; juices up the palate and splendidly aromatic too. $23
• 2014 Domaine de Couron Rosé, Ardeche, France: All-grenache; light pink hue; aromas of strawberry and red currant; nice linear character and terrific, refreshing acidity. $10-$14
• 2013 Truchard Vineyards Pinot Noir, Carneros, Napa Valley, Calif.: Lithe of body and spirit both, with can't-see-'em tannin, wide-open aroma, marked acidity at the finish, and fruit on the darker end of the red fruit spectrum. $30-$35
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