Adapted from “Truly Unusual Soups,” by Lu Lockwood, this recipe is like not unlike a chili, with its beans, beef and chili powder. The spices (heat from the chili, sweet from the allspice) and rich cheese provide plenty to think about when it comes to wine.
MAKE THIS
HUMMINGBIRD BEAN SOUP
Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat; add 1 pound ground beef. Cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 5 minutes. Drain fat, if you like. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder and 1/2 teaspoon allspice; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add 2 cans (14 1/2 ounces each) beef broth and a half can (from 15-ounce can) kidney beans, drained, rinsed; heat to a boil over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, puree remaining beans in a food processor; stir into the soup. Heat to a simmer; cook, 20 minutes. Garnish with shredded cheddar. Makes: 3 servings
Recipe by Bill Daley
DRINK THIS
Pairings by sommelier Rachael Lowe of Spiaggia, as told to Michael Austin:
2013 Lewis Reserve Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Calif.: This chardonnay is ripe and lush, with a rich texture, and aromas of golden apple, pineapple, lemon curd, marzipan and white spice. Though this is more of a red wine dish, this chardonnay has the fleshiness to stand up to the meat and beans while also working well with the dish’s spice element. Also, remarkable acidity on the finish will cut through the soup’s richness extremely well.
2012 Eric Texier Chat Fou Cotes du Rhone, Rhone Valley, France: This wonderful, approachable red wine is 80 percent grenache blended with two white varieties, clairette and marsanne. Its notes of red currant, dried sage and thyme, and hints of smoke and leather, will work well with the ground beef and the beans. The wine’s herbal notes will also add depth to the dish while the smoke will complement the allspice and chili powder.
2013 Cascina Tavijn Ruche Castagnole Monferrato, Piedmont, Italy: The aromatic grape variety ruche is native to Piedmont, and this one, from sandy soil, was fermented using wild yeasts. Aromas of crushed red cherry, black tea, dried red flowers and sandalwood will be a wonderful match for this soup. Dusty, tea-like tannin will cut through the fat of the beef and richness of the beans, and the wine’s exotic spice element will add a component of its own.
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