A roasted chicken, or the remains thereof, is a wonderful thing to have on hand. So is a boiled one. I often simmer the chicken till done, remove the meat and toss the bones back into the broth to enrich it. Sometimes I simmer a few thighs for the same purpose.
Then, with meat and broth on hand, I start to think about dinner.
Often times, that means thinking about chicken tacos. They’re a cinch to make. You build them to order and devour them immediately. Bliss on a plate, and nothing fancy.
I’m talking about the simplest kind of taco: a soft corn tortilla, filled but not overstuffed, with a dab of salsa (or in this case, without salsa, but more on that soon).
In an ideal world, fresh tortillas are made right on the spot and piled into a napkin, aromatic, hot, steamy. In a less ideal but still quite fine world, you’ll be able to find good tortillas at the store.
Patronize a Mexican grocery that gets daily deliveries of fresh tortillas if possible. Shun the commercial brands that use preservatives. It’s worth the hunt. The tortilla is, after all, a major part of a good taco.
Then there’s the question of how best to heat your tortillas to obtain the proper texture. You want them tender, soft, floppy and pliable. I have never had much luck with wrapping them in foil and heating them in the oven, though some swear by it. I’m sure a microwave would be a good solution, but I confess total ignorance in that regard.
The two methods I can vouch for are heating tortillas over in a steamer, or the one I use most frequently, flipping them a few times in a hot cast-iron pan, then wrapping them to steam briefly in a napkin.
For great tacos, you need a zesty filling. It can be as simple as beans and cheese or grilled skirt steak. For those you’ll definitely want a spoonful of kicky salsa.
But I have become enamored of using canned chipotle chilies for my chicken tacos. (Look for small cans with “chipotle chilies in adobo” on the label. They are smoked jalapeños packed in their spicy juices. Keep a few in the pantry.)
I cook the chicken with onions and the can’s contents to a rather saucy consistency, which obviates the need for making an additional salsa, saving time but not sacrificing taste.
With their smoky heat, these peppers are an easy way to build flavor fast. And most people want fast food on a weeknight. But the tacos will be better than any you can buy. A little chopped onion, cilantro and queso fresco, and you’re done.
Chicken Tacos with Chipotle
Total time: 1 hour
Ingredients
4 large bone-in chicken thighs, about 1 1/2 pounds
3 scallions, left whole
1 bay leaf
1 thyme branch
3 black peppercorns
1 allspice berry
2 cloves
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
2 or 3 chipotle chilies in adobo, chopped
3 tablespoons adobo sauce, from the can
1/2 cup broth (use broth from simmered chicken)
8 fresh corn tortillas
1 small white onion, finely chopped, soaked in ice water for 10 minutes and drained
Thinly sliced serrano chili
Thinly sliced radishes
Sliced avocado
Crumbled queso fresco or mild feta cheese
Crème fraîche or Mexican crema
Cilantro sprigs
Dried oregano
Lime wedges
Preparation
1. Put chicken thighs in a saucepan and cover with 3 cups water. Add scallions, bay leaf, thyme, peppercorns, allspice, cloves and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt. Simmer for 30 minutes, then remove chicken and cool. Shred chicken with your fingers, discarding chicken skin and bone. Strain broth and reserve. You should have about 2 cups shredded chicken.
2. Put olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add diced yellow onion, season with salt and cook until softened and a bit browned, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cumin and cook for 1 minute more. Add chopped chipotle chili and adobo sauce and stir to combine. Add shredded chicken, salt lightly and stir to coat. Add chicken broth and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, until sauce has thickened somewhat. Keep warm.
3. Heat the tortillas over steam or by your favorite method, keeping them soft and pliable.
4. Build the tacos quickly: Put a spoonful of the saucy chicken in the center of each tortilla. Top with a teaspoon of chopped white onion, a few slivers of serrano chili, some radish and avocado slices, a teaspoon of queso fresco and a teaspoon of crème fraîche. Add a few cilantro springs and a small pinch of oregano. Serve immediately with lime wedges on the side.
Yield: 4 servings
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