Q: What is a fruity olive oil and where can you buy it?

— MaryAnn Poniak,

Posen, Mich.

A: An olive oil that is deemed fruity may have the word "fruity" listed on the label, but you can't always go by that. Olives are a fruit and varieties vary from region to region. An oil's flavor depends on the types of olives and the process used. I've found that olive oils labeled as extra-virgin and pure tend to taste fruitier. More expensive olive oils tend to have a fruitier taste. You may taste fruity tones of apple, stone fruits and sweet tropical fruits.

Olive oil blends usually don’t have strong fruity tones.

My advice: Try different olive oils on their own or with a piece of bread to find the flavor you want.

Recently, I bought a Private Selection (the Kroger premium brand) olive oil. Listed on the label was “fruity and peppery,” and both flavors were noticeable. At first taste, the olive oil was fruity; a pleasant peppery finish followed. This particular oil is made from arbequina olives (mostly from the Catalonia area of Spain, but also grown in California) and koroneiki (Greek) olives. Arbequina olives are known to have one of the highest yields of oil.

This olive oil reminded me of one two years ago during a cooking class in Madrid. Drizzled over sliced oranges, the oil was pleasantly fruity and pure tasting.

Several factors play in the taste profile of olive oil according to the North American Olive Oil Association. They include the growing regions, the growing conditions, types of olives used and ripeness.

Here’s what some olive oils mean and their uses:

Olive oil labeled "extra-virgin" means it is made from the first pressing of the olives and is less acidic. It can vary in taste from fruity to assertive and even peppery. Extra-virgin olive oil typically is the priciest of all. Use extra-virgin for drizzling on salads, on breads, for dipping or drizzling on cooked foods as a finishing flavor. Another first-pressed variety is virgin olive oil; it has a slightly higher acidity level.

Olive oil labeled "pure" or "100 percent pure" is a blend of refined olive oil and extra-virgin or virgin olive oil, according to the association. Use this as an all-purpose olive oil in baking, sauteeing, making vinaigrettes and sauces.

Olive oil labeled "light" or "mild" is another blend of refined olive oil blended with extra-virgin olive oil. This is an American marketing term and this blend is typically light in flavor — but not in fat or calories. This is a good choice for drizzling on salads or vegetables or mixing with other ingredinets to make a vinaigrette.

All olive oil (and most other oils) have 14 grams of fat and 120 calories per 1 tablespoon.

Use a fruity olive oil in today’s recipe for olive oil cake.

Orange, Date and Olive Oil Cake

Serves: 8

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Total time: 1 hour

For the cake:

Nonstick cooking spray

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 tsp. ground cardamom

1 tsp. baking powder

1/4 tsp. baking soda

1/8 tsp. salt

1/2 cup sugar

1/3 cup fruity olive oil

1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

1 whole egg

1 egg white

1/3 cup plain fat-free Greek-style yogurt

2 Tbsp. grated orange rind

8 whole pitted dates, cut in half lengthwise

For the topping:

1 1/2 Tbsp. sugar

3 Tbsp. fresh orange juice

1/4 tsp. orange-flower water (optional)

Orange rind (optional)

Cinnamon sticks (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350. Coat a 9-inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. In a small bowl, combine the flour, cardamom, baking powder, baking soda and salt; stir well. In a large mixing bowl, combine the ½ cup sugar and oil. Beat at high speed using a mixer for 2 minutes. Add vanilla, egg and egg white; beat 1 minute. Add flour mixture, yogurt and orange rind; beat until well-blended.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Arrange date halves over batter. Bake for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar and orange juice; stir in flower water, if desired.

Remove cake from oven and let stand 5 minutes. Spoon the juice mixture over warm cake. Cool cake completely on a wire rack.

Garnish with orange rind and cinnamon sticks if desired.

Adapted from Cooking Light magazine, June 1996 issue. Tested by Susan Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen.

216 calories (33 percent from fat), 8 g fat (1 g saturated fat), 34 g carbohydrates, 4 g protein, 97 mg sodium, 28 mg cholesterol, 2 g fiber.