Edgy follow-up to Octopus Bar still finding its voice

Here’s my early advice: Order a slice of pain au levain bread smeared liberally with chunky avocado and lavished with rock crab, then don’t miss the tangle of hand-cut pappardelle pasta tossed with lobes of sea urchin, melty bits of pancetta and lemon. This bowl of noodles is a place where sea funk and pork fat express something akin to concupiscence.

There are also sushi and oysters from an odd, multi-purpose raw bar, and Sellitto’s edgy charcuterie, which includes ferociously pungent rabbit liver pate.

Props to the booze: food-friendly wines, recherche beers on tap and smart cocktails compete for your gullet.