The Nook on Piedmont Park joins a growing number of new tavern-style restaurants that combine the stylish atmosphere of a contemporary lounge and a menu that features twists on pub grub staples.
Adam Gajadharsingh (who's had a hand in Sutra Lounge and the now defunct Sweet Lowdown in Midtown) partnered with longtime friends Gabriel Greenberg and David Duley to transform the former Prince of Wales pub space into a place where respect is paid to both the lofty ideals of green building and the simple goodness of Tater Tots.
Eco chic
The Nook enjoys a prime location across from Piedmont Park. The expansive front deck takes full advantage of the view, appointed like an inviting outdoor room with natural wood accents, including a cedar trellis and a couple of cozy timber tables. Inside, beyond the glass accordion doors, much of the restaurant's woodwork comes from reclaimed wood. The main dining area features snug booths. A substantial new corner bar offers 12 draft beers, 20 bottled beers, wines by the glass priced from $6-$10, and a spirited specialty cocktail list.
"Totchos" treats
Once upon a time, Zesto was the only place in Atlanta that served Tater Tots. Nowadays, though, the crunchy, deep-fried nuggets are everywhere, showing up at Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q smothered in brunswick stew and melted cheese, and at Flip in the form of sweet potato tots.
The Nook's version, dubbed Totchos, seem to be inspired by the nacho-style tots at Oaks Bottom Public House in Portland, Ore. They come in four varieties, all covered in a creamy housemade cheese sauce. Red Neck features pulled pork; Philly comes with steak, peppers and onions; and Nacho has chicken, pico de gallo, jalapeños and sour cream. Cajun is the most unusual, served with shrimp and andouille sausage. As a signature dish, Totchos do make a statement. But as a practical matter, these heaping helpings of caloric decadence are probably a dish best shared by a group.
Beyond tots (or not)
The rest of the menu, with items for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, puts a few spins on familiar starters, sandwiches and entrees. Meaty smoked chicken wings are served with spicy Coca-Cola barbecue sauce and blue cheese dressing. Blackened mahi salad is sort of a Cajun-Tex-Mex, with a melange of corn salsa, pico de gallo, corn strips and avocado ranch dressing. The requisite Angus burger is topped with smoked gouda. The Nook Club is a tasty triple-decker layered with shaved turkey breast, spicy Sopressata and brie — but three thick slices of white toast are a bit too much bread for the fillings.
Tots rear their tiny potato heads again on two main plates, a grilled hanger steak, with you-guessed-what instead of frites, and pan roasted, hoisin tot-crusted mahi. The weekend brunch menu includes the likes of bagels with whitefish salad or salmon, Bananas Foster French toast and a variety of omelets and breakfast sandwiches. Not surprisingly, the spicy hash is made with andouille sausage and crushed tots, and the two-egg breakfast comes with "home tots."
THE NOOK
At a glance
Where: 1144 Piedmont Avenue, 404-745-9222
Signature dish: "Totchos" (smothered Tater Tots)
Entree prices: $11.99-$13.99
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 11 a.m. to midnight Sundays. Brunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.
Reservations: For large parties
Credit cards: Yes
Online: www.thenookatlanta.com
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Credit: AP
