That new Chinese restaurant in Doraville? You’re in luck

Open in the former location of Gu’s Bistro, this restaurant offers cooking that spans northwest China, with an emphasis on the cuisine of Shaanxi Province. Like their neighbors in the bordering province of Sichuan, the people of Shaanxi love to combine numbing Sichuan peppercorns with hot chilies.

Try Shaanxi-style cold noodle, a dish that combines slippery, milky-white strands of pasta with chewy slivers of wheat gluten cake, bean sprouts, fistfuls of cilantro and hella spice in a sweet-tangy black vinegar sauce. Also appealing: pao-mo, a hearty lamb soup (identified as “steamed mutton” on the menu) containing slips of tender boneless meat and cubed Chinese bread in a milky, collagen-rich broth. You season it at the table with red chile paste and whole cloves of pickled garlic.

It can be hard to avoid ordering dish after dish bathed in chilies, Sichuan peppercorns and so much oil you wonder if you can use a Jiffy Lube coupon. Do not overlook the vegetable section of the menu, where you will find mild, nongreasy treasures aplenty. Pillowy “vinegar-fried cabbage” offers a hint of tang with its candidacy for food obsession.