By name alone, Mykonos Taverna offers the promise of a lively Greek-style bar/restaurant. And there’s certainly plenty of food, drink and entertainment to be found within its colorful confines. But the uninitiated may be a bit startled by the garish Las Vegas-meets-diner atmosphere.
Compare and contrast
Mykonos is a lovely Greek island in the south Aegean Sea. Mykonos Taverna is oddly situated off I-85 and Clairmont Road at the back of a Sam’s Club parking lot. Glimpsed from the interstate, the deep-blue, free-standing building is about as subtle as a circus tent.
Inside, the slick retro-diner decor is a mere backdrop for a dizzying array of wildly tiled walls and floors, mirrors, and bright lights. Neon signs spell out “Gyro” and “Spanakopita,” and flat-screen TVs dangle around the perimeter of the raised bar area. Especially at night, the total effect is as mind-altering as the infamous “Bazooko Circus” scene in the film version of “Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas.”
Gyro for you
The Mykonos menu advertises: “Largest and Best Gyro in Town!”
It isn’t. But for $7.95 with a side of fries, it hits the right notes. The shaved, meatloaf-like combo of beef and lamb is well-seasoned, the pita is fluffy enough, and with lettuce, onions and a slathering of tzatziki sauce, it makes a filling lunch or late nosh.
Other sandwiches include Philly-style cheese ($8.95), with steak, chicken or gyro meat, various wraps, veggie pita ($7.95) and an 8-ounce Angus cheeseburger ($8.95).
Mezze to grilled meats
The remainder of the sprawling menu ranges from Greek-style mezze starters, such as spinach pie, hummus and baba ganoush, to pork, chicken, beef, lamb or seafood kabobs, and charcoal-grilled steaks and chops.
Hearty traditional Greek casseroles, served with a small Greek salad, are a good deal. Pastitsio ($12.95) is essentially Greek lasagna, layered with noodles, meat sauce flavored with nutmeg, and a creamy Béchamel sauce. Moussaka ($12.95) has the same basic ingredients, except in layers of eggplant and potatoes, instead of noodles.
Daily lunch and dinner specials usually feature a fresh fish dish, as well as various value-added takes on regular menu items.
On Friday and Saturday nights, live Greek music cranks the kitsch factor up a notch or two.
Dining out
Mykonos Taverna Atlanta, 2901 Clairmont Road, 404-638-6770
Signature dish: Gyro
Entree prices: $7.95-$24.95
Hours: 11 a.m-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays.
Reservations: Yes
Credit cards: Yes
Online: www.mykonostavernaatlanta.com
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