THE BUTCHER THE BAKER
25 North Park Square, Marietta, 678-224-1599, eatlocaleatbetter.com
This months-old venue replaces the former Simpatico on Marietta Square. Its country-cool design uses unfinished wood, Mason jars, soft golden lighting and an antique drinks fridge to place things clearly in Southern farm-to-table territory. Married owners Micah (the butcher) and Katie (the baker) Pfister source local produce and make everything from scratch.
Highlights include a smart cocktail list with an emphasis on bourbon, terrific house rolls that you’ll want to inhale and some well composed entrees. A seared duck breast with caraway-flecked cabbage, piquant cherries and a brilliant cornbread puree bridges German and Southern flavors.
The small plates appeal but need some work. Springy pickled shrimp paired with unripe melon and a too-salty boiled peanut hummus miss the mark. But you should save room for the cane syrup pudding with braised figs for dessert — a promising final note for a promising restaurant.
