When it comes to Irish dry stouts, Guinness Draught is the best known and most beloved example of the style. Nowadays, it's a staple of nearly every Irish pub on both sides of the Atlantic, and pretty much the official drink of St. Patrick's Day.
That's thanks in large part to the aggressive marketing of the brand by Guinness owner, and international drinks giant, Diageo. Recent Atlanta promotions have included the annual perfect pint contest and a celebratory toast to the 250th anniversary of Arthur Guinness signing the legendary 9,000-year lease on the brewery at St. James's Gate, Dublin.
But Guinness certainly isn't the only Irish dry stout around. Beamish from Cork City (now brewed by Heineken) has its fans, and is still available in the metro area. And there are plenty of American brewpubs and craft breweries making respectable dry stouts.
In its heyday, Atlanta's late, great Dogwood Brewing Co. produced a wonderfully flavorful dry stout that won kudos from beer writer Michael Jackson, and top honors at the World Beer Cup competition, going up against the Irish stout giants Beamish, Guinness and Murphy's.
Dogwood's Crawford Moran has carried on the tradition at Five Seasons Brewing Co. in Alpharetta, with his Dark Star Stout. It's made with roasted barley and a combination of malts that create what Moran describes as "espresso and chocolate flavors, with a subtle smoky character that persists in the background."
Moran's grandparents came from Ireland, and he says St. Patrick's Day is one of his favorite holidays.
"It's certainly not a beer geek kind of day," he allows. "In certain ways, it's a bit like Oktoberfest — just a fun day at the bar."
Moran will have Dark Star on draft on Tuesday, and will also tap a special cask of the stout (Five Seasons Brewing Co., 3655 Old Milton Parkway, Alpharetta, 770-521-5551).
Another dry stout to look for is Victory Donnybrook Stout, which is being served with the classic, cascading nitrogen pour at many of Atlanta's better beer bars and restaurants — including the newly opened Leon's Full Service in Decatur, the Porter in Little Five Points and multiple Summits Wayside Tavern and Taco Mac locations.
Donnybrook is very low in alcohol (3.7 percent alcohol by volume), with a creamy head, silky body and surprisingly clean, refreshing presence, making it a sublime beer for an afternoon or evening pub session.
German malts, roasted barley and European whole flower hops give it a classic taste that local beer geek and Dublin native Colm Mulcahy declares is "like Guinness used to be."
Bob Townsend is editor of Southern Brew News, a bimonthly beer publication distributed throughout the Southeast.
RAISE A PINT
St. Patrick's Day events include:
• St. Patrick's with Guinness. Guinness and live music will rule the day when two of the city's most popular Irish pubs celebrate in two lively in-town neighborhoods. At Fadó in Buckhead (273 Buckhead Ave., 404-841-0066), the party actually starts Friday and continues through St. Patrick's Day with a "kegs and eggs" breakfast at 7 a.m. and a street party at noon.
• At Limerick Junction in Virginia-Highland (822 N. Highland Ave., 404-874-7147), the 22nd anniversary St. Patrick's Day fun begins at noon in the pub and spills out to the back parking lot (on Greenwood Avenue) at 5 p.m.
• Irish Red at the Prado. Brewer Kevin McNerney of Five Seasons at the Prado in Sandy Springs (5600 Roswell Road, 404-255-5911) will tap his newest creation, McNerney's Irish Red Ale.
About the Author
The Latest
Featured
