Despite its decidedly loopy name, Goin' Coastal is a pretty sophisticated place. Chef/owner Zach Kell calls his Canton restaurant "a sustainable seafood joint" — which translates to a laid-back neighborhood atmosphere, and a menu that showcases high-quality, eco-friendly products from fished or farmed sources in the U.S. and Canada.
Kell — who grew up in Snellville and is a culinary graduate of Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I. — opened Canton's popular Downtown Kitchen five years ago, offering everything from steaks and fish to sandwiches, and even a few Italian dishes. He opened Goin' Coastal in October, with a tighter focus on market-priced fish specials and simple preparations.
Canton coastal
Located in a vintage storefront on the West Main Street village square, the space has an historic aura that wouldn't seem out of place in Savannah or Charleston. And though Canton is clearly hundreds of miles from the ocean, distressed brick walls, rough-hewn beams and huge black and white photographs of fishing boats and fishermen evoke a coastal setting. On a recent Saturday night, the dining room was packed with diners sporting dressy shorts and sandals, and the convivial buzz felt a lot like being on vacation.
Goin' fishin'
The legal-size paper menu, presented on a clipboard, is divided between appetizers, soups and salads, and entrees and house specialties, such as low country bouillabaisse, and shrimp and grits ravioli. An oversized chalkboard near the open kitchen lists the daily specials. Lately, those have included live Maine lobsters, wreckfish and mahi-mahi from South Carolina, Alaskan halibut and Alaskan ivory king salmon, a distinctive white-fleshed fish that's richer and more delicate than the more common red salmon. Fresh fish dishes come lightly seasoned with Kell's own seafood rub and sautéed in olive oil.
Beyond the specials, the regular menu features Gulf oysters, served on the half-shell or baked with various toppings, including a tasty combo of spinach, bacon and parmesan cheese. The Southern-fried platter can include a sublimely decadent trinity of breaded shrimp, scallops and oysters, served in huge mounds on a paper-lined tray. Tangy cole slaw, with crunchy strips of cabbage, carrots and purple onions, and crispy shoestring fries make classic sides. But there's also jalapeño cornbread pudding, corn on the cob, new potatoes, cucumber and tomato salad and hush puppies.
A thoughtful beer and wine list features lots of organic selections and a few local draft brews. And for dessert, there's key lime or pecan pie, and banana cream or mud pie cheesecake.
At a glance
Where: 125 West Main St., Canton, 770-479-3737
Signature dish: Sustainable seafood specials
Entree prices: $12-$26
Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.- 3 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Dinner: 5 p.m.- 9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5 p.m.- 10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.
Reservations: Yes
Credit cards: Yes
Online: goincoastalseafood.com
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