In his droll comic blog, "Stuff White People Like," one of the things writer Christian Lander lampoons is a phenomenon that reaches its crazy apotheosis on weekends in Atlanta — No. 36: Breakfast Places: "restaurants that specialize in breakfast food and are usually only open from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. and if you arrive at any time after 9:30 a.m., prepare to wait for up to an hour with white people who cannot wait to get vegan pancakes, eggs benedict, waffles, or deluxe french toast."
Gato Bizco Cafe in Candler Park is an intown archetype of such places. On a recent chilly, drizzly Saturday morning, the shuffling clusters of young folks out on the sidewalk, all hoping their name would be called from the list next, surely seemed in tune with the Lander universe of bike shops, indie music, and vintage T-shirts.
Cross-eyed cat
In Spanish, Gato Bizco roughly translates to "cross-eyed cat." Inside the spare, narrow space, feline homages include a bulletin board where snapshots of numerous furry friends are displayed. Configured more like a diner than a cafe, there's a row of cozy booths on one side of the dining room. Across the aisle, a long counter with round bar stools faces the open kitchen, affording an up-close view of the busy but efficient cooks at work. Despite the rush at peak hours, service is hospitable and smooth, with a touch of Southern charm.
All-day breakfast
For Gato regulars, breakfast — served 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Wednesdays through Sundays — is the main reason to go. In a compilation of the morning meal's greatest hits, the menu has a little something for everyone, with nods to Tex-Mex, Dixie-fried, and vegetarian favorites. And most items are served up in huge portions. A winning version of huevos rancheros folds mounds of soft scrambled eggs and cheese in two lightly grilled corn tortillas, plated with cumin-laced black beans, red and green salsa, and sour cream. The gut-busting Señor Sparky is six eggs scrambled with cheese and jalapeno peppers, served with grits and toast. Other choices range from omelets and breakfast sandwiches to thick French toast. Big, fluffy biscuits, procured from the bakery at Pastries a Go-Go, can be ordered stuffed with sausage, bacon, eggs or cheese or a side of cream gravy. The thick but surprisingly airy, plate-size pancakes have a devoted following; get them blended with sweet potatoes and spices or dotted with pecans, blueberries or chocolate chips.
Lunch, too
Burritos, quesadillas and soft tacos also are served all day. Grilled sandwiches, such as a Reuben with turkey or corned beef, and cheese with spinach, tomato and basil, come with chips and a pickle. Build your own deli sandwiches, burgers and salads round out the lunch menu.
AT A GLANCE
• Signature dish: Breakfast served all day
• Entree prices: $6.25-$10.95
• Hours: 9 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays.
• Reservations: No
• Credit cards: Yes
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