The Lawrence finally opened in late March, after building anticipation through a series of sneak peek dinner parties in January and February.
The Midtown restaurant is the vision of Patrick La Bouff, one of the partners behind Dinner Party, an underground supper club known for staking out unusual locations, such as abandoned warehouses or a basketball court.
Adding to the buzz, La Bouff is joined by Top FLR and Sound Table executive chef Shane Devereux, former Rathbun’s chef de cuisine George Brook, and star bartender Eric Simpkins.
The look: Located on Juniper Street, in the corner space once occupied by Cuerno and later Lupe, the open kitchen front and center near the entrance says serious restaurant. But floor-to-ceiling windows, cafe-style tables and chairs, and a long curvy bar convey the sense of a sociable neighborhood spot.
The scene: One recent Saturday evening, a youngish dinner crowd slowly gathered, shifting from the bar to tables along the windows, until the candlelit dining room was nearly full. Clinking glasses and the drone of conversation mixed with the sounds of rock music and chefs barking out orders.
The menu: Devereux and Brook cover local, seasonal and whole animal cooking with multiple price points -- building the menu, starting with bar bites such as local root vegetables ($3) and crispy pig ear ($4), and moving on to small, medium and large plates. Spoon bread with fresh corn is topped with sorghum butter and cured hog jowl ($6). Duck tongue carnitas are adorned with cotija cheese, coriander leaf, tomatillo and pickled shallot ($10). Slices of Georgia rabbit schnitzel come covered with herbs, celery, fennel and charred tomatoes ($23).
The drinks: Until last week, the Lawrence didn't have a liquor license, but Simpkins has been experimenting with a variety of cocktails and ingredients, including infusions of coffee, tea and wine. The Lady Lawrence ($9) is a lavender mint tea-infused vodka, ginger, lime, cassis and soda. And look for an emphasis on gin and a house 12-year-old bourbon blended by Elijah Craig.
The extras: Right now, the restaurant is only open Wednesday-Saturday evenings, but the plan is to gradually expand the hours to include lunch, afternoon tea and brunch on the weekends.
Dining out
The Lawrence, Midtown
5-10 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays
Bar bites, $3-$5; small plates, $5-$7; medium plates, $9-$11; large plates, $18-$30.
905 Juniper St., Atlanta, 404-961-7177, www.thelawrenceatlanta.com
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