First Look: Bone Lick BBQ, West Midtown

Bone Lick BBQ, the newest venture from Alex Friedman, Keiran Neely and Mike LaSage, the owners of P’cheen, Pizzeria Vesuvius and the Edgewood Speakeasy, is a spin-off of the weekly barbecue menu LaSage made popular at P’cheen on Monday nights.

The look: Situated in the Apex West Midtown apartment and retail building, Bone Lick joins Slice and the Corner Tavern on a suddenly busy section of Huff Road. Friedman, Neely and LaSage handled most of the design and buildout themselves, giving the space the funky feel of a retro-modern barbecue joint, with recycled wood, a clawfoot tub for beer on ice, and a vintage skee ball machine.

The scene: One recent afternoon, the jukebox, which has a multifarious mix of CDs stocked by friends and family, was ringing out with songs from R.E.M.’s “Murmur” album. Several people having lunch at the bar nodded along with the music, while two men meeting at a nearby table tapped away on dueling laptops.

The menu: LaSage’s meaty, spicy, smoky offerings include ribs, brisket, pulled pork, chicken and housemade sausages, served as sandwiches ($8-$9), entrees ($8-$23) or combos ($14-$26) with a choice of sides. Among the man food concoctions, look for fried homemade pickles ($5), smoked pepper pork rinds ($4) and the Naw Dawg ($8), a bacon-wrapped sausage smothered in smoked cheddar with smoked onions and fresh jalapeno. Even a side of mac-and-cheese ($4) is heated up with jalapeno and topped with pulled pork. But there’s also Yucatan-style barbecued whole red snapper ($17) and a local tomato salad ($9).

The drinks: There’s a short wine list. But the drink menu mostly features beer and whiskey, with a few classic Southern cocktails, including a Mint Julep and a Sazerac. Monday Night Eye Patch IPA, Red Hare Long Day Lager and Sweetwater 420 were on the recent all-local $5 drafts list.

The extras: For dessert fun, LaSage has funnel cakes ($5), boozey peaches ($5) and maple bacon cotton candy ($6). And if you’re up for some competition eating, ask about the Muff Challenge. Weighing in at over six-and-a-half pounds, it’s a $35 muffaletta-style sandwich piled with pulled pork, sausage, brisket, collard greens, crispy onions, jalapeno bacon and coleslaw.

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