In February, Doc Chey’s Noodle House replaced Grant Park’s Stella Pasta, Pizza and Spirits. A puzzling move, perhaps, except that Homegrown Restaurant Concepts was the invisible hand behind both places.
Though Stella was a hit with many neighborhood regulars, judging from the crowds at Doc Chey’s, lately, owner Rich Chey should be happy with the change from red sauce pasta to stir-fried noodles.
Kiss of Asia
As far as the postmodern decor, not much has changed from the Stella days — though, somehow, the addition of red paper lanterns that highlight the dark wood gives the space a kiss of Asia. The entrance has been switched to the side, allowing for more outdoor seating in front, with nice views of Oakland Cemetery. A designated short-term parking area on the street and a take-out counter near the door make it easier to grab-and-go.
Noodle love
For dining-in or taking-out, Doc Chey’s isn’t for aficionados of Buford Highway’s grubby authenticity. Rather, the small chain, which includes locations in Atlanta and Asheville, offers “Peace, Love, Noodles.” Roughly translated, that means approachable pan-Asian food that’s budget and family friendly, served up in a bright service-with-a-smile environment. There’s also a decent selection of beer and wine, and at Grant Park, a cocktail bar adds to the appeal.
Noodle and stir-fry dishes ($7-$9) come with a variety of crispy vegetables and a choice of tofu, chicken, shrimp or beef. Spicy Thai Basil, with red peppers, bok choy, onions and rice noodles, is an easy favorite. Spicy Szechuan has a tasty combo of wok-seared vegetables, though it isn’t anywhere near as fiery as the name suggests.
“Dim Sum”
A good array of appetizers are available under the “Dim Sum” heading. The steamed dumplings with ground pork and ginger ($5) and the lettuce wraps with chicken and spicy bean sauce are good shares. The simple fried Thai shrimp rolls ($5) and veggie spring rolls ($5) feature tight, crispy wrappers that travel well. Choose three appetizers and get $2 off with the “Good Karma Sampler” deal.
Taco time
Asian tacos are a menu special at Grant Park, priced at three for $8. Like some other Asian taco experiments around town, they could use a bit of tweaking, though kudos are due for not including cheese. The Korean beef has bits of nicely marinated flank steak and pickled veggies, but the scant ingredients are overwhelmed by a profusion of shredded Napa cabbage and a gummy flour tortilla. Ditto the fish taco, which features crispy panko-crusted tilapia and a really good chili aioli.
Dining out
Doc Chey’s, 563 Memorial Drive, 404-688-4238
Signature dish: Asian noodle and stir-fry dishes
Entree prices: $7-$10
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
Credit cards: Yes
Online: www.doccheys.com
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