Caribbean melting-pot thrills

If America has become the largest melting pot of world culture, the Caribbean must come in a close second.

The region extends from Cuba to the coastline of Venezuela and is made up of more than 7,000 islands, islets, cays and reefs, as well as dozens of cultures, from the indigenous Arawak to Africans to the Spanish, French, Dutch, Portuguese and British who colonized the islands.

From history to politics and geography, the Caribbean is one hot mess of a subject.

So let’s talk about the food instead.

From arroz con pollo to ackee, the cuisine is as varied as its many cultures. And when a dish such as callaloo or saltfish puddle jumps its way from Jamaica to Guyana, it changes along the way. Indigenous foods such as breadfruit and conch make their way into Caribbean favorites, as do transplanted foodstuffs such as okra, rice and beans.

In metro Atlanta, Stone Mountain has become the hotbed for Caribbean crawls. Memorial Drive may be to Caribbean (especially Jamaican) and African food what Buford Highway is to Asian and Latin cuisines. From happy eat-in joints such as Kool Runnings to takeout spots like Ms. Ena’s, and all the small groceries along the way, the pickin’s are ripe with flavor, like a mess of fried plantains.

We offer a taste of two, plus recipes to create your own Caribbean feast with three of the islands’ favorite dishes: The soupy stew of Callaloo; jerk chicken (just right for warm-weather grilling) and Johnny Cakes — crispy outside, fluffy inside, these fried biscuits are found all over the islands.

This melting-pot cuisine created from dozens of different cultures may vary from island to island, but one of its greatest charms is its diversity.

Where to find Caribbean cuisine

Kool Runnings

4977 Memorial Drive, Stone Mountain, 404-508-0277

At Kool Runnings on Memorial Drive, the folks behind the counter make a big point of telling you when the only jerk left is jerk chicken wings. I’m not sure if that’s because most customers prefer a different cut of chicken or because the spicy herbed wings will set your mouth on fire. Actually, it’s all in the buildup: One wing is fine; two, and your mouth starts to scream. This longtime favorite (which used to be across the street), offers all the Jamaican goodies you could dream of, from salty ackee to collard green-like callaloo. The brown stewed chicken is a succulent must. (There is another location at Gwinnett Place in Duluth.)

Red Hills Jerk Center

7185 Rockbridge Road, Stone Mountain, 770-498-8885

The aroma of smoke melding with meat wafts through the parking lot of Red Hills Jerk Center and reaches you long before you reach the door of this tiny takeout joint. Inside, jerk pork and chicken, along with brown stewed chicken, reign. The jerk is more seasoned than saucy hot, layered with deep barbecued flavor from the grill. Ackee and callaloo are here too, plus provisions — a mix of yams and sweet potatoes that disappears quickly on the weekends. Stacked high with beans, rice and fried plantains, a meal here should start with a curried chicken patty, one of Jamaica’s greatest gifts.

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Recipes

If you’re inspired by the islands, get out your tools. We’ve got three Caribbean favorites to fire up a warm night.

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Spicy Jerk Chicken Legs

Hands on: 20 minutes Total time: 3 hours, 5 minutes (2 hours marinating time, plus 45 minutes to grill) Serves: 6

Jerk chicken is perhaps one of the most well-known of Jamaican dishes. The pepper-laced rub can run from habanero hot to sassy and sweet. Prepare these chicken legs for a fun summer grill out.

6 chicken legs, with skin

4 limes, juiced

1 cup water

2 teaspoons ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons brown sugar

2 teaspoons fresh thyme

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 onions, chopped

4 cloves garlic, chopped

2 habanero peppers, seeded and chopped

Unsalted butter or oil

Place the chicken legs in a large bowl. Cover with lime juice and water. Set aside.

In a small bowl, blend together the allspice, nutmeg, salt, brown sugar, thyme, ginger, black pepper and vegetable oil. In a blender or food processor, mix together the onions, garlic and habanero peppers until almost smooth. Add the spice mixture and blend well.

Pour most of the blended marinade mixture into the bowl with the chicken, reserving a small amount to use for basting. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.

Preheat an outdoor grill for medium heat.

Brush the grill grate with unsalted butter or oil. Place chicken on grill. Cover and cook slowly, turning frequently, and basting often with the remaining marinade mixture for about 45 minutes or until done.

Per serving: 426 calories (percent of calories from fat, 61), 31 grams protein, 11 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 29 grams fat (9 grams saturated), 149 milligrams cholesterol, 491 milligrams sodium.

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Callaloo

Hands on: 20 minutes Total time: 55 minutes Serves: 8

This stew, made with dasheen (taro) leaves or sometimes amaranth (callaloo), varies greatly from island to island. Some versions include okra and crabmeat; others coconut milk. Substitute chard, kale, collards or spinach if you can’t find dasheen leaves. Serve the stew with rice, if desired.

1/2 pound salt pork, fat removed then diced

1 onion, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons minced chives

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

6 cups chicken stock or broth

1/2 cup West Indian squash (or butternut squash)

1 green chile pepper (such as habanero or scotch bonnet), seeded and chopped

1 cup sliced okra

1 pound spinach

Salt to taste

In a large skillet, sauté the diced salt pork with the onion, garlic, chives and thyme.

In a large saucepot, place 6 cups chicken stock or broth. Add the squash, chile pepper, okra and spinach. Cover and simmer until the squash is tender, about 30 minutes.

Remove the chile pepper, if desired, as well as the salt pork. Then puree the soup in a blender or food processor, if desired. Add salt to taste. Add the pork back to the stew and serve with rice, if desired.

Per serving: 266 calories (percent of calories from fat, 74), 12 grams protein, 8 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 25 grams fat (8 grams saturated), 24 milligrams cholesterol, 481 milligrams sodium.