Beer Pick: Evil Twin Ashtray Heart

Profile: Evil Twin madness has been building among Atlanta beer geeks since several offerings from renegade Danish brewer Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergso hit the market in May. The high-gravity, highly rated and rather expensive brews carry names -- Soft Dookie, Disco Beer -- worthy of "South Park."

Ashtray Heart references both a Captain Beefheart song and a common reaction to strong smoked beers. But it’s surprisingly drinkable, with sweet dark malts up front and complex, earthy notes of espresso, licorice and peat smoke.

Pair with: Try Evil Twin with wood-grilled or smoked meats or fish, such as bacon or pork belly, beef or pork barbecue, steak or smoked salmon.

Bob Townsend is editor of Southern Brew News, a bimonthly beer paper distributed throughout the South: www.brewingnews.com/southernbrew.