Let's get this over with upfront: Atlanta lacks a really good deli. I'm talking Stage or Carnegie caliber (and don't get me started over which one of those is best — I'm a Stage girl all the way. I love my $18 sandwich to be named after Warren Beatty).
Without delis, we have no bagels. Or do we? These spots offer a lot more than just a schmear and a bagel, but if you're looking for the round thing with a hole that's not a doughnut, they'll do the job.
BAGEL BOYS CAFE (not rated)
11770 Haynes Bridge Road, Alpharetta. 770-569-1009, www.bagelboyscafe.com
OK, OK. A chocolate chip bagel is hardly authentic. Still. Spread some maple walnut cream cheese on it and you've got a party. Or at least a very good time. Sandwiches — even panini — grace this deli-cum-breakfast shop's menu as well, along with smoothies.
BELLY GENERAL STORE (not rated)
772 N. Highland Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-872-1003, www.bellystore.com
A blackboard tells of goodies to start the day and lunchtime noshes, while the old-fashioned environs offer novelty candies and a few hard-to-find cheeses. But the counter is where it's at: Past pretty cupcakes and cream puffs are the shop's pièce de résistance, olive oil bagels. No, they are not like New York. But they are a doughy cushion of delight for an egg and tomato. Or cream cheese. Or whatever.
GOLDBERG'S BAGEL CO. & DELI (not rated)
1272 W. Paces Ferry Road N.E.; 4383 Roswell Road N.E.; 4520 Chamblee Dunwoody Road; 1197 Peachtree St. N.E., Suite 525, Atlanta.
Four area locations can't be wrong, but full disclosure: I've only eaten at the West Paces Ferry location. Schmears? They got 'em. Salty lox or smoked Nova Scotia? Check. Sliced onions, lemons and capers? Puhlease. Plus hot pastrami and roast brisket. Oh, yeah, and black and white cookies. Close your eyes and you can almost see Seventh Avenue.
BAGEL PALACE (not rated)
2869 N. Druid Hills Road N.E., Atlanta. 404-315-9016
This Toco Hill gem is probably the closest thing we've got to New York-style bagels: a little doughy, to be sure, but very thinly crisped around the edges and perfect to take home with some olive cream cheese. Pastrami on rye isn't bad, either.
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