In praise of popovers: Can Atlanta wait till December for BLT Steak?
At BLT Steak in New York, the name gives away the menu's focus long before you're seated at a table at this tony Midtown bistro. Frenchman Laurent Tourondel has made a name for himself stateside with concepts ranging from BLT Market to BLT Fish. What's in the name says it all.
And beef is easy to get here, from Kobe steak for $130 a pop (in my case, a pop = 5 ounces), to oddly delicate braised short ribs served in a large cast-iron pot. Sides range from hearty, perfectly fried-then-stacked onion rings to fresh English peas singing beautifully with bacon and mint.
But it's what comes to the table before all this that blew my mind. I've been taken prisoner by the popover. Apparently so has the rest of Manhattan. Yes, the popover — the simple combination of eggs, milk, butter and flour that poofs up like a giant mushroom spore during baking, giving way to a steamy hollow center just right for a big fat dab of butter when brought hot to the table.
BLT has become synonymous with the fluffy treats, which are usually eaten as a breakfast goodie, making popovers their signature item even more than the steaks. Every table gets a basketful as part of the pre-meal pastime. They are warm tufts of heaven, and as good as the meal was, they had me at hello.
Similar to pâte à choux (the eggy mixture that makes éclairs and cream puffs), the batter for a popover differs slightly with a higher ratio of liquid. When baked in a special tin (similar to a muffin tin but much deeper), a miracle happens: The liquid heats to steam, evaporates and creates a huge, hollow crater that sets once the eggs in the batter reach a certain internal temperature. Eating one is like taking a bite out of a puffy, eggy cloud.
Jeffrey Chodorow's Kobe Club has a similar offering — a basket of bite-sized popovers sprinkled with shredded Parmesan cheese graces the table as soon as cocktails are ordered.
Who knew there was so much power in a breakfast pastry? I can't wait till BLT Steak opens here (scheduled for December at the downtown W Hotel) so I can go back for more. I wonder if I could order them online. ...
The Shed at Glenwood
The Shed at Glenwood has opened in the Glenwood Park development between Grant Park and East Atlanta. Owner Cindy Shera, a former general manager at Here to Serve Restaurants' Twist, has hired chef Daniel Atwood, formerly of Prime and Sage. The two are planning a seasonal approach to the menu from crispy fried artichokes to shiitake dumplings, plus a raw bar and weekly wine specials. 475 Kennedy Way, 404-835-4363.
Parish Foods & Goods
Concentrics Restaurants' Parish Foods & Goods, the New Orleans multi-concept restaurant in the heart of Inman Park's old Factory Terminal Building, has officially opened. 240 N. Highland Ave., 404-681-4434, www.parishatl.com.
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