Breakfast served all day is the big draw at this quirky Candler Park cafe, with limited morning and afternoon hours. In a compilation of the morning meal's greatest hits, there's a little something for everyone, with nods to Tex-Mex, Dixie-fried and vegetarian favorites. And most items are served up in huge portions. A winning version of huevos rancheros folds mounds of soft scrambled eggs and cheese in two lightly grilled corn tortillas, plated with cumin-laced black beans, red and green salsa and sour cream. Other choices range from omelets and breakfast sandwiches to thick French toast. Big, fluffy biscuits can be ordered stuffed with sausage, bacon, eggs or cheese or a side of cream gravy. The thick but surprisingly airy, plate-size pancakes have a devoted following; get them blended with sweet potatoes and spices or dotted with pecans, blueberries or chocolate chips. Burritos, quesadillas and soft tacos also are served all day. Grilled sandwiches, such as a Reuben with turkey or corned beef, and cheese with spinach, tomato and basil, come with chips and a pickle. Deli sandwiches, burgers and salads round out the lunch offerings.

IF YOU GO

Address: 1660 McLendon Ave. N.E., Atlanta 30307

Phone: 404-371-0889

Cuisine: Breakfast and lunch cafe

Hours: 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays.

Price Range: $

KEY TO AJC RATINGS

***** Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.

**** Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.

*** Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.

** Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit and miss.

* Fair: Food is more miss than hit.

Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. The price code represents a typical full-course meal for one excluding drinks.

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