When it comes to a great neighborhood restaurant and an excellent brunch dish, you want something comfortable and familiar, but with just enough originality to make it feel unique. Kitchen Six is a neighborhood restaurant that expertly walks this fine line, and the short rib and eggs dish on its Sunday brunch menu exemplifies the idea of the creative classic.
The key, of course, is that the comfortable and familiar half of the recipe must be well-executed. Kitchen Six nails its short rib: It’s fork tender and rich with beefy flavor, and the portion is a healthy size for a dish that costs a reasonable $15. The sunny-side-up eggs also are perfect: the whites cooked through with the yolk left runny.
That runny yolk mingles perfectly with the more creative half of the dish, especially the lime crema that rests underneath the headlining components. Kitchen Six has added a bit of Southwestern flair to its otherwise simple dish of meat, eggs and potatoes. The tangy lime crema is supported by a zippy chimichurri sauce and some thinly sliced pickled peppers, which also add a welcome pop of color to the plate. These piquant elements harmonize with the short rib and eggs for a dish that benefits hugely from these few minor tweaks.
Not many of us like change for the sake of change itself, and it appears that the folks at Kitchen Six understand this. When you’re updating a classic, the updates actually must add something to the original. Otherwise, it’s all just window dressing.
Kitchen Six. 2751 LaVista Road, Decatur. 404-330-8336, kitchensixoakgrove.com.
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