Beaujolais Nouveau is coming, and soon, but for wines of more character, look to Beaujolais cru for some wonderful Gamay for fall drinking. This Regnie from Dijon native (and avid surfer) Julien Sunier is a revelation. A gentler expression of Gamay, it is floral and delicately spicy. And yet it’s complex enough that you find something new in every sip. Sunier’s Morgon and Fleurie crus, like the Regnie, densely planted old vines farmed biodynamically, are worth seeking out too.

Drink the Regnie with Indian food, roast lamb or braised lamb shanks. It’s perfect for lentil stew or hearty bean casseroles too. And for a great burger, this is the wine.

Region: Beaujolais

Price: About $24

Style: Graceful and balanced

What it goes with: Indian food, braised or roast lamb, lentil stew, a burger