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It is a good time to be enthusiastic about sparkling wine. Outside of the Champagne region, which dominates the category, quality in sparkling wine has never been greater or more consistent.
My three sparkling wine picks reflect this.
There is an outstanding Champagne, of course. The 2006 Moet Grand Vintage Brut is a beautifully structured Champagne that is sensational now and for many years to come. The vintage was outstanding throughout Champagne and Moet was able to make an impressive bubbly despite its relatively large production. The price is reasonable and the 2006 vintage is easy to find.
I also went for a top-notch Italian bubbly because northern Italy's finest efforts from either Franciacorta or Trento are very competitive with Champagne in the world of luxury sparkling wine. The Altemasi Riserva Graal from Trento is more evolved at this stage than the Moet, showing richness and maturity that will please anyone fond of aged Champagne.
And finally I went for the Gloria Ferrer Royal Cuvee from California's Carneros district. I've had wonderful experience with this cuvee over the years and have found it to be exceptionally age-worthy, in a class with better Champagne. California certainly produces other outstanding sparkling wines that I wouldn't hesitate to serve beside a great Champagne -- Domaine Carneros Le Reve, Schramsberg J. Schram and Roederer Estate L'Ermitage come to mind -- but dollar for dollar, the Gloria Ferrer Royal Cuvee can hang with the best California has to offer.
Enjoy!
Moet & Chandon 2006 Grand Vintage Brut Champagne, France ($65) -- Moet has been on a roll of late with its Grand Vintage Brut Champagne. The 2004 was superb and the 2006 is every bit as good. On the nose it offers a note of toast and brioche, with a hint of lemon. But it's on the palate that the '06 struts its stuff, exhibiting crunchy apple fruit with firm backbone wrapped around a creamy mid-palate. The tension between those two worlds is stunning. A panel of advanced and master sommeliers gave this wine a Platinum award and a score of 94 points at the 7th annual Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition. Rating: 94.
Altemasi 2006 Riserva Graal, Trento DOC, Italy ($60) -- Altemasi's 2006 Riserva Graal Brut was disgorged in 2014, giving it eight years on the yeast lees to develop complexity and aroma. It has aged beautifully, showing bright straw color while exhibiting a complex nose of lemon oil, caramel and spice. On the palate the wine offers weight and depth without sacrificing elegance. It finishes long and rich. A fine example of top-notch Italian sparking produced using the Metodo Classico method, with the second fermentation in the bottle. Rating: 93.
Gloria Ferrer 2007 Royal Cuvee, Carneros ($37) -- Royal Cuvee is one of Gloria Ferrer's prestige bottlings, meaning it is given extra attention in the cellar and extended aging to add complexity prior to disgorgement. The 2007 is beginning to show some of those mature fruit aromas that come with age, yet it maintains its youthful edge, with fresh acidity and bright fruit aromas. Secondary aromas of butterscotch and honey are beginning to emerge to compete with the note of fresh apple and pear of the wine's youth, but the result is a complexity that is as noteworthy as it is unusual in a New World sparkling wine. Rating: 93.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Casal Garcia Espumante Rose, Vinho Verde, Portugal ($12) -- Lovely strawberry and spice aromas are inviting on the nose and delivered on the palate. This is a delightful demi-sec sparkling from Portugal's Vinho Verde region, which is best known for its dry white wines. Serve this with spicy appetizers around the holidays, or soft aromatic cheeses. Rating: 88.
Tasting Notes
J Vineyards Brut Rose, Russian River Valley ($40) -- J's brut rose shows the potential for this style in the cool regions of coastal California. Beautifully structured, with firm acidity and impressive length on the palate, this latest release exhibits aromas of strawberry and red raspberry, with exquisite balance and a fine bead. This sparkling rose has the backbone to serve with main courses such as roast duck and chicken or grilled salmon. Rating: 92.
J Vineyards Cuvee 20 Brut, Russian River Valley ($35) -- J's Cuvee 20 is a suave, delicious expression of sparkling wine from the cooler spots in Sonoma's Russian River Valley. This latest release exhibits aromas of pear, peach and Meyer lemon, with notes of vanilla spice and brioche and a fine, soft bead. Rating: 90.
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