Wines with tropical flavors or layers of citrus notes, teamed with crisp acidity, will bring out the flavors of grilled chicken with a mango relish.
The food
Tandoori chicken with mango relish: Mix 8 ounces plain yogurt and 1/4 cup tandoori seasoning in a bowl; add 1 cut-up chicken. Toss pieces to coat thoroughly. Let stand 30 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine 1 diced mango; 1/2 red onion thinly sliced; 1 jalapeno seeded, minced; 2 tablespoons minced cilantro; 1/4 teaspoon salt; and the juice and zest of 1 lime. Set aside. Remove chicken from marinade; discarding marinade. Grill chicken over medium heat, turning often, until juices run clear, 25-35 minutes. Serve with mango relish. Makes: 4 servings
The wines
Pairings by sommelier Michael Taylor of Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House in Chicago, as told to Michael Austin:
• 2013 Quintessa Illumination Sauvignon Blanc, Napa/Sonoma: Because this dish features a mango relish and other green, herbal flavors such as jalapeno and cilantro, sauvignon blanc is an easy choice. Unlike other California sauvignon blancs, Illumination leans more toward tropical mango and honeyed citrus, with amazing floral aromas. It also has just a touch of oak, which makes it slightly richer and creamy and lends itself nicely to the yogurt base of the dish.
• 2013 Henschke Julius Riesling, Eden Valley, Australia: This dry riesling offers intense layers of lime and citrus zest, coupled with distinct jasmine floral aromas. At the same time, the crisp acidity and mineral core — thanks in part to vines planted on sandy loam over gravel and bedrock with patches of clay — will play nicely with the relish. This wine is very dry, devoid of sweetness but loaded with steely, pure flavors that often catch people off guard and will certainly elevate this dish.
• 2014 Tatomer Meeresboden Gruner Veltliner, Santa Barbara County: With its crisp acidity, peppery tones, mineral rich palate and mouthwatering citrus appeal, what's not to like about gruner veltliner, Austria's principle grape? This example comes from California and is the best version of gruner veltliner outside of Austria, hands-down. Loaded with stone fruit, layers of citrus and a slight salinity, this wine, which is named for the powdery, fossilized sea soils in which the vines grow, will give the dish lift and balance.
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