To the casual observer, what's in a wine glass is infinitely more important than the glass itself. To a large extent, that's true. Yet the glass ultimately plays a huge role in the level of enjoyment you get from the wine.
With apologies to Georg J. Riedel, the Austrian glassmaker who promotes the belief that virtually every different wine type requires a glass tailored in size and shape for very specific grape varieties, stemware requirements are a bit more pedestrian.
I don't need a $75 hand-blown Bordeaux goblet to fully experience the wonders of my favorite cabernet sauvignon. A simple wine glass that can withstand the rigors of a dishwasher does the job most of the time. It may not be as aesthetically pleasing, but the sensory aspect is more or less the same.
What I look for first in an everyday wine glass is a shape that is conducive to aromatic development. That means the mouth of the glass should be narrower than the bowl. This allows you to swirl and aerate the wine, which brings up the aromas and softens some more astringent wines.
The notion of drinking good wine from a Mason jar might be a romantic nod to fond memories from yesteryear, but you will lose some potential flavor development in the process, and you won't get as much from the tasting experience as you should.
I also prefer a wine glass that has volume. A 10-ounce glass is about the smallest I use, and generally for white wines only. I much prefer wine glasses that have a capacity of 20 ounces or more. The greater capacity allows for a greater surface-to-air ratio, enhancing the aromatic complexity of almost any wine. Pour 5 to 7 ounces into a 20-ounce glass, and see for yourself. It doesn't matter whether the wine is red or white.
It may surprise some wine enthusiasts, but white wines also benefit from the additional room to breathe. Even sparkling wines and Champagne taste better in this type of glass than they do in a traditional Champagne flute.
Bottom line, using a good wine glass may not be as important as what's in the glass, but it's certainly part of the pleasure equation.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Poliziano 2014 Rosso di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy ($15) -- Count on Poliziano to deliver exceptional value on a wine at the entry level. This is one of the Montepulciano region's top five producers, and it has stuffed this $15 Tuscan red with plenty of character. Notes of black cherry, a floral note and firm acidity, which will round out in another year or so, make this wine a virtual steal. The blend, for those who care about such, is 80 percent sangiovese and the rest merlot. Rating: 88.
Poliziano 2014 Morellino di Scansano, Tuscany, Italy ($15) -- Morellino is just another name for sangiovese, and it is used exclusively in the Scansano district of Tuscany's Maremma region. This is a very good everyday Tuscan red with a medium-weight palate and good balance. Serve it with olives, hard cheeses, pizza or tomato-based sauces. Rating: 86.
Tasting Notes
Dry Creek Vineyard 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, Taylor's Vineyard "Musque Clone," Dry Creek Valley ($28) -- Dry Creek Vineyard's commitment to sauvignon blanc, a favorite grape variety of the founder, David Stare, is a wonder to behold. From its grassy Fume Blanc to the elegant Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc to this dynamic single-vineyard Musque Clone sauvignon, DCV delivers. The Musque Clone sauvignon from DCV's Taylor's Vineyard is one of the finest, if not the finest, sauvignons produced in America. Made without the use of oak and fermented in stainless steel tanks, it stands on its own as a dramatic example of the heights that this sometimes maligned grape variety can reach. Notes of white peach and citrus are its signature, but its balance, complexity and length are astonishing for a domestic sauvignon. Outside of France's Loire Valley or the Graves district of Bordeaux, this is one of the finest sauvignons I've ever tasted. Rating: 97.
Palmer & Co. Brut Reserve Champagne, France ($49) -- You will search a long time before you find a more exceptional nonvintage brut Champagne at this price. The Palmer brut reserve utilizes up to 35 percent reserve wines in the cuvee, with about 50 percent sourced from grand cru or premier cru vineyards. The combination of richness and complexity with freshness is stunning. Aged four years on the lees, the result is a Champagne that delivers notes of vanilla and brioche along with aromas of ripe pear and crunchy apple. The balance and length are exquisite. Rating: 94.
Patz & Hall 2014 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($48) -- This is your basic Patz & Hall pinot, meaning it retails for less than $50 a bottle. That said, it stands up well against the more expensive vineyard-designate pinots offered by the winery. This vintage delivers notes of red cherry and cola, a whiff of lavender on the nose and a hint of wood spice on the finish. Rating: 92.
Matanzas Creek 2014 Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($28) -- Matanzas has always been identified with three grape varieties: merlot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. That's no accident. They've long been among California's best at all three, and this latest Sonoma County chardonnay makes the point. It allows the fruit to shine without undue influence from the oak barrel. With bright aromas of pear and apple, and a touch of lemon complemented by notes of nutmeg and vanilla, it is downright delicious. And given the winery's stature, at $28 it is modestly priced. Rating: 91.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru.
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