Memorial Day weekend kicks off the grilling season, and there will undoubtedly be those who've forgotten the essentials since the last ember went cold at the final barbecue Labor Day weekend.
First, and probably most importantly, the grillmeister must be kept properly refreshed from prep to plating. There is no scientific evidence grilled meats, fish and vegetables taste better from a properly refreshed grillmeister, but I can say with certainly that in my years of experience in that position, everything turned out better when I had a glass of wine in my hand while charring the grub.
Anything fresh, crisp and cold will do. Lately I've been fond of dry rose while I grill, but sauvignon blanc, gruner veltliner, vermentino or dry riesling work nicely, too.
Second, there is the wine service, such as it is at an outdoor barbecue. Most everyone knows that it's wise on a warm day to have a large plastic or metal tub filled with ice to keep the white wines and rose cold. What gets lost in the casualness of the backyard barbecue is the importance of temperature to the enjoyment of the red wines.
Trust me, you will appreciate a slight chill on the reds on a warm day. Red wines served too warm will seem out of balance, with the alcohol or tannins or both getting in the way of what should be pure pleasure.
Finally, and probably least importantly because taste is subjective and you should ultimately choose to drink the wines you like, there are the wines that I prefer to serve at summer barbecues. I like them because they're easy, so maybe you will, too.
For me, the perfect red for grilling season is Beaujolais. Right now there is an abundance of the exceptional 2015 vintage available. Beaujolais is also quite nice when chilled. Malbec from Argentina, Valpolicella from northern Italy, simple Rioja crianzas, cabernet franc from Virginia and red Rhone blends either from France or California also work nicely with the smoky, savory aromas from the grill.
The whites I enjoy most are the Alsace varieties, particularly dry gewurztraminer and pinot blanc from France, California, New York or Washington. These are exceptional food wines and generally lighter in alcohol. And now that rose is catching on with a broader audience, domestic dry rose made from pinot noir or sangiovese, or the dry rose wines from the south of France are excellent additions to any gathering around the grill.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Argento 2014 Malbec Reserva, Valle de Uco, Argentina ($17) -- With a floral nose and deep notes of black fruits and spice, this is the sort of malbec that won over consumers during the beginning of the Great Recession, when it seemed the whole world was searching for exceptional wines at bargain prices. Argentina delivered, and Argento was one of the big players as the world discovered that Argentine malbec is seriously good and relatively cheap for the quality. Rating: 91.
Three Otters 2015 Pinot Noir Rose, Willamette Valley ($18) -- The Three Otters Pinot Noir Rose is a curious blend of two styles. It uses whole-cluster pressed and tank-fermented juice for one part of the cuvee, and barrel-fermented saignee drawn from selected pinot fermentation tanks for the other part. The rose that results strikes a balance between the lighter, crisper style of the whole-cluster method and the richer, heavier style of the saignee. The wine is refreshing and intriguing, showing notes of citrus, red berries and dried herbs. The combo approach works! Rating: 90.
Tasting Notes
Dutton Goldfield 2016 Pinot Blanc, Shop Block, Green Valley ($30) -- Pinot blanc is a popular white grape in France's Alsace region, but it usually doesn't translate well to California. The Dutton Goldfield is the exception. This is a rich layered pinot blanc in the Alsace tradition, with beautiful acidity supporting ripe aromas of candied pear, tropical fruit and spice. California usually doesn't do Alsace this well, but winemaker Dan Goldfield nailed this one. Rating: 94.
Bouchaine 2014 Chardonnay, Estate, Carneros ($30) -- Bouchaine has had a succession of excellent winemakers over the years who always produced the same result. The estate has a knack for producing elegant chardonnay that are rich without being heavy and complex without being manipulated. The 2014 is a beaut, offering a nose of lemon creme and pie spice, exceptional fruit purity on the palate and a long pleasing finish. Rating: 91.
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