Let’s face it. Any fish can be tricky to grill.

Overcooked fish? No thanks.

Salmon is a wise choice for grilling for several reasons.

In general, salmon is one of the firmer fish. Because of that firmness it holds up well to grilling and can take the heat. And by grilling, I mean directly on the grates or a cedar plank, not on a piece of foil.

With salmon, you want to make sure it’s seasoned with a good amount of kosher salt and, if you like, freshly ground black pepper. Any chef will tell you, it’s the salt that brings out the flavor of salmon, and other varieties of fish.

Brush or rub it with some oil first and then sprinkle salt and pepper. You can also add other seasonings.

You can grill salmon over direct heat if you pay close attention to the heat. It should be medium, but not scorching-hot medium. Grilling salmon over indirect heat takes that out of the equation because the heat source is surrounding the salmon and not directly below it.

Over the years, I’ve grilled salmon flesh side down and skin-side down first. I find grilling flesh side first is a good bet because it allows me to judge doneness better and helps me know when it’s ready to flip.

When you place the salmon flesh side down on the hot grates, the flesh continues to cling tighter and tighter to the grates. You can see the flesh protrude between the grates. Once it’s cooked enough, a thin spatula should easily be slipped under the fillet so you can turn it over.

Depending on the thickness of the fillet, it can take 5 to 7 minutes. Once you turn the fillet over, it needs just another 3 to 5 minutes to cook.

When cooking salmon allow about 10 minutes cooking time per inch of thickness – that’s called the Canadian rule. It’s also a good idea to have an instant-read thermometer to check the internal temperature. I cook salmon to about 130 degrees and then let it rest 5 minutes before serving.

If you’re still not sure of grilling salmon (or other fish) directly on the grill try this technique: place some citrus slices on the grill and place the salmon on the citrus. The citrus will get nice and charred on the bottom and infuse the salmon with flavor.

Also salmon loves being cooked on cedar planks. Look for cedar planks at most big box retailers. You’ll find them in the grilling sections. You need to soak the planks for several hours — I soak them overnight — before using. If you don’t, they will burn. It’s a good idea when using cedar planks not to put them over a direct flame for the same reason. Even if the planks are well soaked, they will burn.

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Cedar Plank Dijon Salmon with Broccolini on the grill on August 9, 2017. (Eric Seals/Detroit Free Press/TNS)

Credit: Eric Seals

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Credit: Eric Seals

CEDAR-PLANKED SALMON FILLETS WITH BROCCOLINI 

Serves: 4 / Preparation time: 20 minutes / Total time: 45 minutes

Be certain to allow time for soaking the cedar plank before grilling.

1 untreated cedar plank, 12 to 15 inches long and about 7 inches wide

1 skin-on salmon fillet, about 1 1/2 pounds and 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons packed brown sugar

1 pound broccolini, stem ends trimmed and split lengthwise 1/2-inch below florets

2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon grated orange zest

Soak the cedar plank in water for at several hours or overnight.

Prepare the grill for medium heat about 375 to 400 degrees..

Cut the salmon into four equal pieces and generously season salmon with salt and pepper.

In a small bowl mix together the mustard and brown sugar into a paste. Spread the paste all over the salmon. Toss the broccolini with the oil, salt and pepper to taste

Place the soaked cedar plank over direct medium heat and close lid. After 5 to 10 minutes when the plank begins to smoke and char, turn the plank over. Place the fillets, skin side down, in a single layer on the plank, leaving a little room between the fillets and place broccolini on the grates surrounding the plank.

Grill the fillets and broccolini with lid closed until salmon is cooked to desired doneness and broccolini is crisp-tender, about 12 to 15 minutes, turning vegetables and checking salmon for doneness every 5 minutes. The broccolini will char a little on the floret ends.

Transfer salmon fillets to plates. In a bowl, toss broccolini with orange zest and serve with salmon.

Adapted from “Weber’s New Real Grilling” by Jamie Purviance (Sunset, $24.95).

Tested by Susan Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen.