For food of a region, drink wine of the region

This recipe is what the Poles would call bigos or kapusta (the former thicker than the latter’s soupier texture), or what those who live in Alsace, France, would name their famed choucroute garnie — or close enough. (Many more pork cuts in a choucroute.) So, because the best match for this dish is Polish beer or wine from Alsace, given the “drink with what it grows up with” mantra, the recommended wines are from Alsace, that most northeasterly French region well known for its gastronomy. Well, and one from Italy made in the same style and from a grape Alsace also knows well.

The food:

Cabbage soup with kielbasa

Heat 1 quart beef broth, 1 cup beer, 1 can (14 1/2 ounces) diced tomatoes and 1 bay leaf to a boil in a Dutch oven. Add 1 small head cabbage, shredded, 1 large baking potato, chopped, 1 large onion, thinly sliced, 1 large carrot, sliced, 8 ounces kielbasa sausage, cut in 1/2-inch dice, 1/2 teaspoon thyme and 1/4 teaspoon caraway seed. Heat to a boil; reduce heat to medium. Partially cover the pot. Cook until the potato and carrot are tender, about 15 minutes. Add salt, if needed, and pepper. Makes: 6 servings

Recipe by Robin Mather

The wines

2013 Attems Pinot Grigio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy: This has an earthier, more robust, character than most PGs from northern Italy; hence, for fuller fare at table, stuff that can handle its assertiveness. $20

2013 Domaine Weinbach Pinot Blanc Reserve, Alsace, France: Every refrigerator in Alsace has a bottle of the region's pinot blanc waiting and willing. Why? Because everyone there knows little else is as versatile for its food. $25

2013 Emile Beyer Riesling Tradition, Alsace, France: Only a few other grapes offer riesling's cutting acidity, perfect for cleaning the palate of fat, salt and heft, but also for prepping it for the next bite. $22