This seemingly simple, straightforward dish holds together several elements that can be difficult for wine: sweetness, salt, fat and chili heat. Avoid big, tannic, heavy reds; they’ll come off as clumsy and don’t have what it takes to refresh the palate. But high-acid, moderately alcoholic, even mildly tannic reds will play well against those elements. Wines with a modicum of sweetness, or even an impression of fruity sweetness (as sometimes you get with pinot noir or softer versions of syrah), are even better with foods that have a little sweetness to them, which all good ‘Q usually does.

The food: Barbecued Pork with Cheese Corn Bread

Dump 1 small package (8.5 ounces) corn bread mix into a bowl; mix with 1/2 cup milk and 1 egg. Stir in 1 cup each corn kernels and grated cheddar cheese, 3 green onions, minced, and 1 small jalapeno, seeded, minced. Pour into a greased 8-inch-square baking dish. Bake at 400 degrees, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 3 cups leftover or store-bought barbecued pork in a covered saucepan over low heat until hot throughout. Cut corn bread into squares. Halve the squares horizontally. Serve pork over the corn bread. Makes: 6 servings

Recipe by Carol Mighton Haddix

The wines

2012 Chateau Ste. Michelle Syrah, Columbia Valley, Washington: Made in an approachable, softly rendered style; pleasantly perfumed, medium-weighted, goes down easily. $15-$18

2013 Stickybeak Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California: Tough to find good pinot at this price, but here’s one that delivers cherry and red berry fruit on all fours; bright finish acidity too. $20

2012 Collestefano Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy: As if green apples and their skin had been purified into wine; very nice soft mouth feel but plenty of zesty cleansing finishing acidity. $15