Menu overhaul shows promise at Roswell spot


ETRIS KITCHEN & BAR

12020 Etris Road, Roswell. etriskitchen.com.

[2 of 5 stars] A worthy addition to its neighborhood and the food is consistent. $$-$$$

ETRIS KITCHEN & BAR

Overall rating: 2 of 5 stars

Food: contemporary American

Service: highly variable

Best dishes: fried chicken, she-crab soup

Vegetarian selections: a few starter salads

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Price range: $$-$$$

Credit cards: all major credit cards

Hours: 4:30-9:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 4:30-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays

Children: fine

Parking: shared lot

Reservations: yes

Wheelchair access: yes

Smoking: no

Noise level: moderate

Patio: yes

Takeout: yes

Address, phone: 12020 Etris Road, Roswell. 770-545-8650.

Website: www.etriskitchen.com

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Etris Kitchen & Bar in Roswell just overhauled its menu to coincide with the arrival of new chef Boyd Rose. Offerings have shifted from tavern-style pizzas and burgers to more composed small plates and entrees fit for “families and foodies,” which owner Massi Mekhmoukh said is the restaurant’s target market.

Families will appreciate the satisfying fare, the $24 entree cap, the relaxed atmosphere and the lovely patio with stacked-stone accents. The foodies Etris hopes to attract will cotton to Rose’s efforts to source locally and seasonally, but may find his food a bit heavy-handed at times.

Try the classic she-crab soup, which features total cream overload, plentiful crab and a generous, albeit controversial, spiral of cream sherry. Then go for the fried chicken, a moist and boneless breast encased in a semi-crisp, well-seasoned crust that’s both light and savory.

I see promise. With a just few tweaks, Etris Kitchen & Bar could be a thriving option for local families, if not the foodies just yet.