Menu overhaul shows promise at Roswell spot


12020 Etris Road, Roswell.

[2 of 5 stars] A worthy addition to its neighborhood and the food is consistent. $$-$$$


Overall rating: 2 of 5 stars

Food: contemporary American

Service: highly variable

Best dishes: fried chicken, she-crab soup

Vegetarian selections: a few starter salads


Price range: $$-$$$

Credit cards: all major credit cards

Hours: 4:30-9:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 4:30-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays

Children: fine

Parking: shared lot

Reservations: yes

Wheelchair access: yes

Smoking: no

Noise level: moderate

Patio: yes

Takeout: yes

Address, phone: 12020 Etris Road, Roswell. 770-545-8650.




Seed Kitchen & Bar

Seed Kitchen & Bar, located in east Cobb's Merchant's Walk shopping center, serves modern American cuisine prepared by chef and owner Doug Turbush. Favorites here include the roasted beets and watermelon salad with pistachios, house-made ravioli and the High Road Craft ice cream and sorbet tasting. Check out the beverage menu with fun vintage and modern cocktails, craft beers and wine. 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. 1311 Johnson Ferry Road, Marietta. 678-214-6888, $$-$$$.


Three Blind Mice

At this neighborhood gathering place, you'll see evidence of chef Matthew Murphy's French culinary training on the menu. Lunch brings sandwiches like the Croque-Monsieur or Madame and rich, heavy dinner dishes such as steak Diane and pan-roasted, double-cut pork chops. Look for weekly events including Wednesday wine tastings, Thursday tapas and Sunday beer tastings. 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays, 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. 1066 Killian Hill Road S.W., Lilburn. 770-696-4139, $$-$$$.


Sprig Restaurant

Nestled in a strip mall in the Oak Grove area, Sprig bills itself as a farm-to-table restaurant specializing in Southern comfort food. When possible, Sprig sources ingredients from locally owned farms, wineries and breweries. Specialties include the pimento and bacon sandwich, sesame-crusted ahi tuna and St. Louis barbecue ribs with chipotle glaze. Many menu items can be made gluten-free upon request. This family-friendly restaurant serves daily lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m and 4:30-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 4:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. 2860 Lavista Road, Decatur. 404-248-9700, $$-$$$.

Etris Kitchen & Bar in Roswell just overhauled its menu to coincide with the arrival of new chef Boyd Rose. Offerings have shifted from tavern-style pizzas and burgers to more composed small plates and entrees fit for “families and foodies,” which owner Massi Mekhmoukh said is the restaurant’s target market.

Families will appreciate the satisfying fare, the $24 entree cap, the relaxed atmosphere and the lovely patio with stacked-stone accents. The foodies Etris hopes to attract will cotton to Rose’s efforts to source locally and seasonally, but may find his food a bit heavy-handed at times.

Try the classic she-crab soup, which features total cream overload, plentiful crab and a generous, albeit controversial, spiral of cream sherry. Then go for the fried chicken, a moist and boneless breast encased in a semi-crisp, well-seasoned crust that’s both light and savory.

I see promise. With a just few tweaks, Etris Kitchen & Bar could be a thriving option for local families, if not the foodies just yet.