Lately, my mind and palate have been thinking of the opulent cabernet sauvignons of Napa Valley. For weeks, I wrestled with a celebrity chef to get him to give a seminar with me at the Taste of Atlanta Festival in October. The topic? Napa cabs and steaks.

After the chef, famous for his steak cookery, agreed to do the seminar, I took a gander at my wall of wines, looking for something from Napa. And there, sitting quietly, with just a little dust on it, I spied a Freemark Abbey cabernet sauvignon.

During its long history, Freemark Abbey has had more lives than a cat in a violin string factory. More recently, the St. Helena, Calif., landmark winery has been on an upswing since its purchase in 2005 by the Jackson Family Wines, or so I’ve heard.

Quite coincidentally on the day of its 125th anniversary party, I poured myself a glass of the 2007 cab and swirled away. At first, it seemed a little awkward, but what eventually emerged was a beautiful, multi-layered, balanced example of why people make a big deal about Napa wines.

As it can be with wine seminars with famous chefs, good things come to those who wait.

2007 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California

$40

Two Thumbs Way Up

Initially a bit closed, but opened to reveal aromas of dark berry fruit, violets, spicy cinnamon and touch of chocolate. Flavors mirrored the nose with abundant ripe fruit qualities supported by firm-but-approachable tannins and notes of clove, new leather and cola nut.

Note: Wines are rated on a scale ranging up from Thumbs Down, One Thumb Mostly Up, One Thumb Up, Two Thumbs Up, Two Thumbs Way Up and Golden Thumb Award. Prices are suggested retail prices as provided by the winery, one of its agents, a local distributor or retailer.

Gil Kulers is a certified wine educator and a wine consultant for Tower Beer, Wine & Spirits. You can reach him at gil.kulers@winekulers.com.