The wine shop boss tossed me a wine sample as I was heading out the door and asked me to evaluate it for her. Normally, this is not a big deal, but as I looked at the label, I had to ask her, “Really? You are kidding, right?”
Her knowing grin told me all I needed to know. There was probably a surprise hiding inside this incredibly inexpensive bottle of corvina wine from Veneto, Italy. Nevertheless, I managed to avoid it for a couple of weeks.
Prodded on by duty to company, I eventually popped the cork of the corvina, which often delivers seriously boring wines. Turns out this inexpensive wine was gulpably delicious with ripe red fruit flavors, moderate tannins and a playful toasted almond/nutmeg quality. I found out subsequently that Torre del Falasco is made by one of Italy’s most respected cooperatives, Cantina Valpantena, which answered a lot of my quality questions.
Whether it’s a $1,000 trophy wine or a $6 bottle with a cuddly animal on the label, always taste before judging.
2008 Torre del Falasco Corvina, Veneto, Italy
$11 (750ml)/$26 (3 liters)
Two Thumbs Up
Inviting aromas of ripe raspberry, black cherry and blackberry with a touch of black licorice. Smooth, round, slightly tart red berry flavors with notes of toasted almond, nutmeg and a leathery quality. An easy, gulpable wine.
Note: Wines are rated on a scale ranging up from Thumbs Down, One Thumb Mostly Up, One Thumb Up, Two Thumbs Up, Two Thumbs Way Up and Golden Thumb Award. Prices are suggested retail prices as provided by the winery, one of its agents, a local distributor or retailer.
Gil Kulers is a certified wine educator and a wine consultant for Tower Beer, Wine & Spirits. You can reach him at gil.kulers@winekulers.com.
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