Empire State South created a buzz long before it opened in Midtown in late August. Call it a glorified meat-and-two, if you must. The first Atlanta enterprise from star chef Hugh Acheson builds on the renown of his two Athens restaurants, Five and Ten and The National, taking a contemporary approach to Southern food, serving breakfast and lunch weekdays, dinner every evening, and brunch on the weekends.
The look: Designers Susan Hable Smith and Lisa Fiscus used heart pine salvaged from an 1850s house in Duluth and century-old pecky cypress to fix the flowing, open dining rooms in vintage wood from floor to ceiling. An imposing granite-topped bar and cues from the 1950s men's lifestyle magazine, "Gentry," reinforce the sturdy, artisan atmosphere.
The scene: Acheson has a hip young following. They work at Empire State as servers, bartenders and baristas. And on a recent evening, there were so many diners sporting tattoos and fab outfits, the scene felt more like a college club than an upscale restaurant on the ground floor of a high rise. Of course, the location assures bankers, lawyers and office workers are eating and drinking, too.
The menu: A James Beard Foundation Award finalist the past four years, Acheson has always embraced seasonal cooking and regional ingredients. Here, his menus feature the likes of fried chicken biscuits, smothered pork chops, mac and cheese and collard greens. A Southern antipasti platter displays tea sandwiches, pickles and deviled eggs.
The drinks: A dedicated oenophile, Acheson also owns Gosford Wine shop in Athens. The Empire State wine list pays tribute to classic styles and producers and on it Acheson explains, "The idea that red Burgundy and Southern food should go together is inextricably woven into the mantle of this restaurant."
The extras: Empire State takes advantage of a secluded slip of green space with a covered patio for drinks and dining and a Bocce ball court made from thousands of crushed oyster shells. Beginning Wednesday at 4 p.m., celebrate the opening of Midtown Markets farmers' market with $2 Terrapin beer.
Dining out
Empire State South
Breakfast: 7-10:30 a.m. Mondays-Fridays. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 5:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Brunch: 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.
Snacks and starters, $2-$15; entrees with two sides, $15-$28.
999 Peachtree St., Atlanta. 404-541-1105, www.empirestatesouth.com
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