CANS Taqueria

CANS Taqueria’s sunny patio and folding glass doors allow diners sitting indoors to enjoy the warm weather and refreshing breezes that make spring an excellent time to try out the Milton restaurant.

The eatery opened in May 2009, leaving some locals wondering about the meaning behind the capitalized part of its name. Turns out that CANS represents the initials of its original owners, which still include popular bartender Carlos Baca, formerly with Pure Taqueria in Alpharetta.

Setting the mood

The setting has a Southwestern look, with warm tones, beige stucco walls and wood beams. Decorative yellow and blue Mexican tiles pop, and the lighting is a mishmash of colorful glass pendants, woven shades and rustic chandeliers. A bar wrapped in tin, like you would see on the ceiling of an old building, melds into the dining area. The bar's mirrored shelving showcases part of its collection of beer, wine and more than 190 tequilas. A soccer game was on the flat-screen TVs during our Sunday lunch visit.

Great way to start

Chips arrive in spiral metal stands lined with paper, accompanied by CANS’ version of salsa with corn, black beans and onion. Unique appetizers include surf, turf and sky dip ($9.99), which adds shrimp and pieces of steak and chicken to their cheese dip as an alternative to queso fundido, which also is on the menu. Fill a flour tortilla with the dip and it’s kind of like a gooey quesadilla. The guacamole ($7.99) has chunks of avocado but still maintains a smooth texture, and the portion is more than enough for two to share. The ceviche ($8.99) is a nice light choice and the tang of the lime and lemon marinade comes through on the fish, which is covered with diced tomatoes, pieces of avocado, and cilantro. The accompanying plantain chips were crispy but needed more salt.

A feast of meat

The restaurant has recurring specials like street tacos ($10.99), a meaty option that fills three corn tortillas with chorizo, skirt steak and chipotle chicken, and topped with cilantro and queso fresco. The carnitas ($11.99) are wonderfully moist and seasoned with diced tomatoes, onions and peppers. The black beans get the extra touch of queso fresco on top. Its rice is cooked with cilantro and poblano pepper, giving it a green tint, but we expected more flavor coming from those additions. Other entrees include a variety of tacos, fajitas, burritos, enchiladas, salads and sandwiches. The only homemade dessert choice is flan ($4.99). The firm pudding had the consistency we like, but the sauce failed because the alcohol wasn’t reduced enough before serving it. When we mentioned the problem (the staff did not know we were reviewing the restaurant), the dish was removed from our bill. To draw families, the restaurant’s kids eat free deal, with the purchase of an entrée, is offered every day.

DINING OUT

CANS Taqueria, 12635 Crabapple Road, Milton (770) 663-0908

Signature dish: Carnitas

Entree prices: $7.99-$14.99