Cafe Bleu

Six o'clock is early for Cafe Bleu. The Lawrenceville restaurant, located in a strip shopping center, keeps going until 3 a.m. most nights, hosting performances by poets, comedians and musicians. There aren't many patrons on our Friday night visit, but our peaceful meal is interrupted by the annoying sound of a crackling amplifier as jazz musicians set up for a performance. It set the tone for a dining experience that played like a lovely melody at times but hit a few flat notes along the way.

BEGINNING BEATS: The blackberry barbecue-glazed Georgia wild shrimp is a mouthful to order, but it is a mouth-pleasing appetizer that fuses sweetness and spice. The shrimp is artfully placed around a bed of white rice and sliced cucumber, making a strong first impression. It's a better choice than the thick spinach and roasted artichoke dip, which is heavy on the Parmesan cheese and light on the artichokes. The entrees are preceded by crispy salads, which are served in visually appealing white square salad bowls, but the presentation is marred by broken Styrofoam cups containing our dressings.

HIGH AND LOW NOTES: Crustaceans fare less well in the shrimp and grits entree — they are dry, tough and overcooked. The fried chicken is also a bit dry, but the breading is jazzed up with a mix of Cajun and Indian spices, a welcome complement to this Southern fave. The 12-ounce rib-eye is seared perfectly, giving it a charcoal taste while retaining its juices. It's served on top of creamy mashed potatoes with caramelized onions and marinated mushrooms. The cream sauce on the huge homemade lobster ravioli doesn't dazzle the taste buds, but the pecan tart is the perfect coda.