Jeffrey Chodorow is not a subtle man. This New York restaurateur brought the world Rocco DeSpirito on NBC's "The Restaurant," and he's the guy who bought a full-page ad in The New York Times to bash Times dining critic Frank Bruni for Bruni's review of Kobe Club, Chodorow's swanky samurai steak house in Midtown Manhattan.
Through his company China Grill Management, he's expanded a culinary empire over the last 20 years to include restaurants China Grill (in Manhattan, Mexico City and Miami), Asia de Cuba (New York, London, L.A., San Francisco and Scottsdale, Ariz.) and Mix (Las Vegas). Among others.
And he's taken his share of punches. The latest blow has been the heyday the New York press has had with his latest concept, Maxim Prime. "Maxim" derives from the laddie mag of the same name – a fairly innocuous, scaled-down-and-partially-clothed version of Playboy aimed at 25-to-35-year-olds. The "prime" apparently has something to do with steak.
The coupling has been dubbed a "breastaurant," and likened to an upscale Hooters. New York magazine rendered a mock-up version of the mag with Hilary Duff on the cover wearing nothing but a ribeye.
So of course, where else in all the world but Atlanta would Chodorow choose to bring his sexed-up steakhouse? Atlanta is home to the first of many Maxim Primes; more (up to 25) will likely open in the next two years. I'm sure the world can't wait.
Located inside the Glenn Hotel and replacing doomed BED, Maxim is spread between two floors — a downstairs lounge and the upstairs dining room. Like most of Chodorow's venues, Maxim Prime's décor and ambience rely on stun factor – the look is sensory overload, from the underlit stalagmite thingies jutting from the ceiling over the bar to fuzzy cubes apparently used for sitting. Videos blare, playing a mix of '80s pop songs. Bright pink vines interwoven with an occasional snake crawl the walls and bar, lit with etchings of the seven deadly sins and virtues.
Perched in front of "wrath," I felt as if I had been dragged into some mod cave. That "Star Trek" episode where Capt. Kirk fights the fish guy and has to be nursed back by that funky brunette chick came to mind. Am I honestly expected to take this seriously?
An experience in the bar area is far different from the upstairs dining room. The cocktail waitresses come straight from the cattle call for sexy cave girls and aren't bent on hospitality. They have stripper names conjured from the 50 states, like "Texas," and at times seem truly put out to have to bring a round of drinks.
Up a winding staircase to the dining room, things begin to feel markedly different. First, the digs become more subdued. Of course, there is the gratuitous video art display, this one a desert-and-rock scene with something that looks like a melted down R2 –D2 in the middle of it. I'll be the first to admit I don't get it, even when I turn my head sideways.
But at the table, Maxim Prime finally starts to impress. Sure, the menu goes awry touting "twins" (small plates with two of each items, duh) and "threesomes" (offerings of three varied small dishes from Italy, Japan, Cuba and France).
But servers (and yes — there are actual twins here) are impeccably versed on the menu, designed by Maxim Prime's "concept" chef Scott Ubert and executed remarkably well by local boy Daniel Zoby, who's worked at FAB and City Grill, making him no stranger to the downtown dining scene.
Color me sheepish: In spite of all the garish unruliness of the décor, the food at Maxim Prime is actually quite good. The menu is varied enough to serve up sophisticated steaks and entrees as well as late-night goodies that double as appetizers.
"Millionaire" (the quotes are mine, not theirs) deviled eggs (part of the "twins" menu) are served prettily in egg cups with a swirl of savory, pickled stuffing, topped with shavings of white and black truffles, caviar and a tiny shaving of gold leaf. A twosome of braised short rib sliders is fun to share, the meat richly flavored and enhanced with hints of horseradish and capers. Even crudo —ahi tuna with creamy avocado and grapefruit; hamachi drizzled with a hot rum jalapeno jus — makes a fresh, understated statement.
Big-ticket items like steaks and lobster are served a la carte in steakhouse style, with a selection of sauces as classic as bearnaise and as bold as Barolo. Lobster tails are a grand throwback to steakhouse classics, and fun to dip into drawn butter.
But it's the "threesomes" that prove most interesting. I'll admit they have the initial appeal of an Epcot venue gone way wrong, but the concept actually works on the plate. All the smallish offerings come with some cut of steak — from Cuba, a tamarind-, orange- and honey-marinated skirt steak, combined with succulent mofongo (mashed plantains) loaded with chorizo and a lobster tail mai tai; from Italy, a filet combines with a semi-spicy shrimp saltimbocca wrapped in prosciutto and crispy fried, succulently centered arancini.
And for all the preliminary talk of prime steaks, Chodorow has made more of a name for himself with creamed corn – like the offering at Kobe Club in New York, Maxim's corn is worth the price of admission – crunchy, creamy and all truffled up, it's one of the best things offered at this whacked-out wonderland of flesh and bone.
Desserts by comparison are remarkably forgettable – chocolate mousse in a martini glass and crème brulee cheesecake are afterthoughts on an otherwise clever, albeit kitschy, menu.
Kitschy. It's a good word for Chodorow's approach. Good thing he's got the goods to put his money where your mouth is.
Maxim Prime Atlanta, 110 Marietta Street N.W., inside the Glenn Hotel, 404-469-0700.
Overall rating:
Food: Steakhouse plus
Service: Dining room service is professional, courteous and knowledgeable. Lounge service not so much...
Address, telephone: 110 Marietta Street N.W., inside the Glenn Hotel, 404-469-0700.
Price range: $$$
Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Diners Club, Discover
Hours of operation: Brunch Saturday and Sunday 8 a.m. till 3 p.m., breakfast Monday through Friday 6 a.m. to 10 a.m., lunch Monday through Friday 11 a.m. till 2 p.m., and dinner nightly 5 p.m. till 11 p.m.
Best dishes: Italian and Cuban "threesomes," "millionaire" deviled eggs, sliders and kobe joes, creamed corn, tasso hash, lobster, filet
Children: Nope
Parking: Validated valet for $5 or nearby lots
Reservations: Yes
Wheelchair access: Yes
Smoking: Rooftop only
Noise level: Very high when busy
Patio: Rooftop
Takeout: Yes
Website: http://www.maximprime.com/atlanta.html.
KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region. 
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area. Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining. 
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss. 
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.
Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)
