THE SHED AT GLENWOOD. The Shed at Glenwood, part of the new Glenwood Park development between Cabbagetown and East Atlanta, is as shiny and bright as a newly minted penny. The menu? Farm-to-table, of course. The attitude? Relaxed, come-as-you-are. The menu changes regularly —- the deep-fried softshell crab with a bright-tasting spinach and arugula salad was perfectly crunchy, but only for a few weeks. Enter chili-glazed duck breast, a little tough, with Asian flavors and an excellently made cole slaw of mixed cabbages. Among the "sharing plates" is the beet salad, perhaps the best beet salad ever. In history. Roasted local beets, red and gold, are tossed with white Balsamic, orange segments and goat cheese, topped with micro greens. From a list of "large plates," whole snapper was glorious, stuffed with lemon, rosemary, thyme and oregano. Tempura vegetables, though mostly julienned red bell pepper, are wonderfully crunchy, and the flavor of the vegetable manages to push through batter and frying fat. The Shed may come off initially as just another "been there, done that, got the T-shirt" kind of place, but in reality there's lots more pith here than platitude. 475 Bill Kennedy Way, Atlanta. 404-835-4363. Casual dress. Reservations accepted. Parking in adjacent lot. $$-$$$ **
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KEY TO RATINGS
***** OUTSTANDING: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
**** EXCELLENT: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
*** VERY GOOD: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
** GOOD. A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
* FAIR. Food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated POOR.
Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 or less; $$$ means $50 or less; $$ means $25 or less; $ means $15 or less.
The price code represents a typical full-course meal for one excluding drinks.
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