COOKS & SOLDIERS
691 14th St., Atlanta. 404-996-2623, cooksandsoldiers.com. $$$
2 of 4 stars [very good]
This latest restaurant from the Castellucci Hospitality Group (the Iberian Pig) is their most mature and best effort yet. Inspired by a tour of Basque country in Spain, chef Landon Thompson offers a fine interpretation of this intriguing regional fare.
You will want to start your evening on a stool facing the bar, behind which cooks toast thick slices of bread on a griddle for pintxos (“peenchos”), those anything-goes canapes that are a staple of Basque bars.
Try the Caña Klasikoa, which combines creamy goat cheese with roasted veggies and a few pistachios for good measure. Want something a bit more austere? The pan con tomate — crunchy grilled bread with a blood-red swipe of garlicky tomato puree — tastes good, particularly with salty boquerones (pickled anchovies) laid atop.
Move on to fuller fare in the comfortable dining room. A whole daurade fish off the wood grill sports milky flesh and crackling skin enhanced by a sprinkling of crunchy garlic chips. And you must make room for desserts, such as the frozen berries with billowing plumes of liquid nitrogen smoke.
About the Author
Keep Reading
The Latest
Featured