Anthony Bourdain advised that fish should not be ordered in restaurants on Mondays.
Though he later walked back that sentiment, he brought the idea of ingredient freshness and restaurant delivery schedules into the wider public consciousness. These days, most good restaurants receive ingredient deliveries on an almost daily basis, often from local producers — but they usually aren’t sharing their delivery schedules with diners. At Hopstix, in Chamblee, they do the opposite, serving a special Tuna Thursday menu, simply because their tuna is delivered on Thursdays.
While the entire Tuna Thursday menu looks worthwhile, one standout item is tuna marrow diamonds. For a dish that’s visually striking and uniquely flavored, the preparation is simple: a section of tuna spine is sawed in half lengthwise, then roasted until the bone is blackened and the marrow turns to liquid.
The flavor of the tuna marrow is like a lighter version of a raw oyster; it’s briny and oceanic upfront, but beneath is a rich depth. The chefs at Hopstix dress the dish with restraint, using a bit of sweet soy and taro sauce to round out the flavor and add a bit of texture.
For such an interesting dish, the price might be the most eye-popping thing about it: just $8. The menu at Hopstix is designed for ordering lots of little dishes and sharing, so there’s almost no risk in ordering the marrow diamonds. For those who aren’t interested, there are plenty of grilled skewers and sushi rolls. But, the unique flavor of tuna marrow will have true seafood lovers starting a countdown for the next Tuna Thursday.
Hopstix. 3404 Pierce Drive, Chamblee. 678-888-2306, hopstix.com.
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