This light, elegant dish is a nice change of pace for brunch

The days of brunch as an afterthought are over.

This has been the case for a while, but the point was driven home again at Bread & Butterfly on a recent Saturday. Chef Billy Allin was working the line at the Inman Park restaurant, his flagship now that Cakes & Ale in Decatur has closed. 

Not only was a well-established chef working brunch service, but the short menu appeared to be thoughtfully crafted.

The shrimp remoulade at Bread & Butterfly is a perfect example of brunch done right. Fat shrimp, served cold, were nestled in a bed of fresh, crisp salad greens. Sourced and cooked with care, the shrimp had an exceptionally clean flavor. Sliced avocado added a bit of richness to the dish in a classic way. It was a reminder that this combination predates the current trend of putting avocados on and in everything.

The remoulade sauce, credited to the New Orleans grande dame Commander’s Palace, tied everything together with tanginess and zest.

It’s a satisfying dish that won’t weigh you down.

This is another sign of how far brunch has come: a meal that fits into your day, rather than putting you in a coma.

Bread & Butterfly. 290 Elizabeth St. NE, Atlanta. 678-515-4536, bread-and-butterfly.com.