The word “inclusivity” might have a modern ring to it, but the holidays long have been a celebration of warmth, welcome, open doors and shared hearths.
As we gather to celebrate and eat together over the next couple of months, our traditional sense of hospitality can run into speed bumps due to our present-day understanding of our guests’ food allergies, sensitivities and preferences. Preparing a Thanksgiving meal that can be enjoyed by traditionalists and vegans alike might be a challenge, but there is good news: True Food Kitchen has a vegan, gluten-free squash pie that everyone can love.
If you order a slice of the squash pie at the highly visible restaurant in Lenox Square mall, be prepared to share. Their definition of a “slice” is a full quarter of the pie, reminiscent of the unrealistic fractions lessons in your grade school math textbook.
Q: If Jack cuts his pie into quarters and eats two pieces, how many pieces are left for Jill?
A: Jack might have self-control issues.
You wouldn’t blame Jack for eating half of this squash pie, though. The filling is smooth, wonderfully creamy butternut squash, scented with familiar holiday spices. The crust is dark and crunchy, made with gluten-free graham crackers. The pièce de résistance is the coconut whipped cream, possibly the best part of the dessert. It’s extremely light and airy, and the hint of coconut flavor is a nice complement to what, ultimately, is a very straightforward holiday pie.
As Thanksgiving approaches, and we mix together our modern ideas of inclusion with our traditional understanding of hospitality, dishes like True Food Kitchen’s pie are a good reminder that the combination can be natural and delicious.
And, for those who need a little extra help, whole squash pies are available to order for $25.
True Food Kitchen. 3393 Peachtree Road NE, Atlanta. 404-481-2980, truefoodkitchen.com/atlanta.