The banh mi, a classic French-Vietnamese sandwich featuring flavors from Southeast Asia wrapped in a traditional baguette, appears to be an unstoppable force in the highly competitive sandwich landscape. Its popularity in the United States has grown steadily over the past 15 years, and the plucky sandwich now has gained a new foothold in Buckhead.
The recently opened Bun Mi Vietnamese Grill, located in the same building as Starfish sushi and Holeman & Finch, dedicates half its menu to the banh mi. The other half is devoted to bun, another wonderful Vietnamese dish, but the sandwich gets top billing. It’s worthy of the position.
The Bo-Mi is one of the more traditional sandwiches on the menu. Like the rest of the sandwich options, it’s served on high-quality bread that’s reminiscent of the classic Leidenheimer baguettes from New Orleans. The various components filling the sandwich each have distinct characteristics that help them stand out from one another. The grilled beef short rib is tender, and packed with instantly recognizable bulgogi flavor. The cilantro and pickled vegetables combine for a strong herbaceous note, and sliced cucumber adds texture and balance.
Other sandwiches on the menu feature a-la-minute ingredients, like kale, avocado and turmeric, but the traditional flavors of the Bo-Mi didn’t suffer without the trendy add-ons. With these sandwiches, like so many other things, the original needs no improvement.
Bun Mi Vietnamese Grill. 2277 Peachtree Road, Atlanta. 678-705-9156, bunmigrill.com.
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