Atlanta Restaurants & Food
Kulers Uncorked: Breaking Up With Brunello
2012 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Italy Photo: Gil Kulers
Dear Brunello di Montalcino,
Let me first say, It’s not you. It’s me.
This is something I’ve been meaning to tell you for a long time and this is hard. I’ve long enjoyed your deep, rich earthy flavors. Your ability to age gracefully, even in the marginal vintages, was impressive. And you were always a real tiger in the glass with the ability to pair with a big ol’ steak or a simple dish of pasta tossed with fresh tomatoes and olive oil.
You were always there for me, but the truth is I’ve found someone else. Her name is Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Despite her rather regal-sounding name, she’s really quite down to earth and a bit simpler than you. Remember how long it took for you to come to market? Fifty months after harvest! I’m sure that added to your integrated, complex aromas, but, c’mon, Bru, that’s a long time to wait.
Vino Nobile is ready in 24 months and what she lacks in complexity and intensity, she makes up with freshness and a ready-to-drink style. Admit it, Bru, from time to time you could be on the dark, brooding side and a little hard to appreciate.
And it’s not like Vino Nobile just showed up out of nowhere. She’s been growing on her hilltop village for centuries. She was a favorite of Pope Paul III in 1500s and, according to her Tinder bio, was mentioned in Voltaire’s 18th-century novel “Candide.” You see, she’s had her time in the sun, just like you are enjoying your popularity now.
Here’s the funny thing, a lot of people mix you two up. First, you do have somewhat similar names. You come from the same neighborhood in Siena. Did you know that Vino Nobile is only about 20 miles east of you? Here’s the real crazy thing: You are both made with the same grape.
Now, I know how touchy you are when I don’t mention your full varietal name, sangiovese grosso, but genetically speaking, you are just another sangiovese grape. Vino Nobile has a special name, too. It is prugnolo gentile, which, as it turns out, is the same clone as you. Isn’t that funny?
Bru, I hope we can still be friends. I won’t hesitate to order you for special occasions, but it just can’t be all the time. To be honest, you’ve gotten a little pricey over the years. I just had a wonderful Vino Nobile called Avignonesi. She was $30 at the wine shop. Her little sister, Rosso di Montepulciano, was only $20 and very tasty as well. Remember when you were $30?
Brunello, you were the best. I will always keep a special place for you in my wine rack. And don’t forget, we’ll always have the 1997 vintage.
Gil Kulers is a sommelier and maitre d’ for an Atlanta country club. You can reach him at gil.kulers@winekulers.com.
- 2012 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Italy
- $30
- Two Thumbs Way Up
- Pleasant aromas of ripe, red berry fruit with a touch of tobacco and damp earth. It has balanced flavors of red cherries, raspberries, dried strawberries supported by subtle, smoky notes of earth and leather. A gulpable wine, but with a lot of finesse.
Note: Wines are rated on a scale ranging up from Thumbs Down, One Thumb Mostly Up, One Thumb Up, Two Thumbs Up, Two Thumbs Way Up and Golden Thumb Award. Prices are suggested retail prices as provided by the winery, one of its agents, a local distributor or retailer.
