There is a restaurant on Marietta Square that stands out thanks to a rather poetic name from an old nursery rhyme. The Butcher the Baker's name also is notable for the lack of the ampersand or plus sign that has become an Atlanta restaurant cliche. That's a hint that the folks behind the restaurant have a bit of creativity; they know how to tweak a recipe so that it's familiar, yet still original.
Such a dish is their muffuletta, which actually may be the perfect sandwich collaboration for a butcher and a baker. This version includes tasso, salami and city ham on soft, fresh focaccia. The friendly wait staff will tell you that Micah and Katie Pfister, the husband-wife ownership team, made nearly every component themselves. Katie, the baker, bakes all of the restaurant’s bread each morning, while Micah, the butcher, cures the meat in-house.
If the biggest Atlanta restaurant cliche is a name with an “&” in it, the second biggest might be the overpriced charcuterie board. With the Pfisters’ muffuletta, you basically get a high-end charcuterie board piled onto a sandwich — and it only costs $13. Compare that with the price of much less satisfying charcuterie boards at many restaurants, and you’ll see the value.
Then, there are the house-made potato chips served with the sandwich. They have two flavors: sour cream and onion, and truffle-parmesan. The truffle-parmesan chips were wonderful. The kitchen doesn’t skimp on the truffle oil, and it tasted like the real deal. The distinctive Perigord flavor is present on every chip, though it doesn’t overwhelm.
The Butcher the Baker is a tasteful neighborhood space where classic dishes are treated with respect and still receive a dollop of creativity. After you try it, you’ll envy those locals lucky enough to be regulars. For the rest of us, it’s a good reason to visit Marietta Square.
The Butcher the Baker. 23 N. Park Square, Marietta. 678-224-1599, thebutcherthebakermarietta.com.
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