It'd be easy to dismiss a restaurant located in a bland-looking outdoor mall.

Chef Andre Gomez, "one of the most genuinely gifted practitioners of warm hospitality I’ve witnessed," writes AJC food critic Wyatt Williams, serves up dishes inspired by the cuisine in his native Puerto Rico, including a pressed cohiba, fried tostones, ribs and conch fritters. It amounts to "a much better restaurant than it needs to be, more fun and generous, more interesting, more delicious," Williams writes.

See more photos from Porch Light Kitchen:

Puerto Rican fried pork chop “Can Can" at Porch Light Latin Kitchen. Photo Credit- Mia Yakel. Styling Credit- Chef Andre Gomez

Credit: Yvonne Zusel

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Credit: Yvonne Zusel

Conch fritter with poblano remoulade and chayote slaw. Photo Credit- Mia Yakel. Styling Credit- Chef Andre Gomez

Credit: Yvonne Zusel

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Credit: Yvonne Zusel

Chef Andre Gomez. / Photo Credit- Mia Yakel.

Credit: Yvonne Zusel

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Credit: Yvonne Zusel