In tomorrow's AJC I have a review of Etris Kitchen & Bar . I gave it a grade of 2 stars.
Etris Kitchen & Bar in Roswell just implemented a menu overhaul to coincide with the arrival of its new chef Boyd Rose. Offerings have shifted from tavern-style pizzas and burgers to more composed small plates and entrees fit for “families and foodies,” which owner Massi Mekhmoukh said is the restaurant’s target market.
Ultimately, this neighborhood spot will need to get the nod of approval from the locals it serves. Families will appreciate the satisfying fare, the $24 entree cap, the relaxed atmosphere and lovely patio with stacked-stone accents. The foodies Etris hopes to attract will cotton to Rose’s efforts to source locally and seasonally, but may find his heavy-handed and repeated use of demi-glace uninspired. Foodies may enjoy trying one of the beers like the Cherry Street Brewing Cooperative’s Coconut Porter ($6) on tap, but may sniff at having most brews served in the same logoed beer-can glassware.
Try the classic she-crab soup, which is total cream overload, plentiful crab and that generous, albeit controversial, spiral of cream sherry. Then go for the fried chicken, a moist and boneless breast encased in a semi-crisp, well-seasoned crust that’s both light and savory.
I see promise. With a just few tweaks, Etris Kitchen & Bar could be a thriving option for local families, if not the foodies just yet.
You can read the full review on myajc.com .
Also check out our photo gallery from my visits to the restaurant.
--by Jenny Turknett, Atlanta Restaurant Scene blog
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