While some wine lovers may view the annual Thanksgiving feast as a daunting challenge, I see it as an opportunity. The beauty of the Thanksgiving bird, in my humble opinion, is its versatility with wine. A roast turkey is a blank slate, equally delicious with a variety of red or white wines and also amendable to wines that show a hint of sweetness.
Though the conventional wisdom steers us toward light, fruity reds such as Beaujolais, the fruity red from burgundy is by no means the only pairing that succeeds at the Thanksgiving feasting table. What makes Beaujolais work so well is its low-tannin structure. Turkey, even if roasted to perfection, tends to be a dry white meat. Big, bold reds with drying tannins tend to clash with turkey.
So, what other reds are fruity and low-tannin? Cotes du Rhone with a high percentage of grenache in the blend would qualify. You won't go wrong with Guigal in that regard. Barbera also tends to be low in tannins. Those from Italy's Piedmont region can be exceptional, and two of my favorites are produced Michele Chiarlo and Vietti. Domestically Eberle and Imagery Estate also make fine Barbera.
At my Thanksgiving table we tend to set out white wines along with the reds. Because of the nature of turkey's dry white meat, I generally prefer a white wine that is slightly oily in texture. An Alsatian pinot gris or gewurztraminer from top producers such as Trimbach or Hugel stand up nicely to the strong flavors and spices of Thanksgiving feast side dishes as well.
Thanksgiving dinner also is a perfect time to uncork one of those rich, buttery chardonnays you've been saving for just the right occasion. Something from Patz & Hall, Rodney Strong or Cakebread would be a nice fit. Riesling, like chardonnay, has the power and assertiveness to also stand up to the complex array of flavors and spice presented by Thanksgiving side dishes.
I lean toward domestic rieslings from tried-and-true riesling specialists such as Dr. Konstantin Frank, Trefethen and Smith-Madrone.
And finally, if you absolutely must have one of those big hot-rod red wines lurking in your wine cellar, go for one that has a bit of age -- at least to the point that the tannins have softened!
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Edna Valley Vineyard 2014 Pinot Noir, Central Coast ($17) -- The rise in the popularity of pinot noir since the movie "Sideways" has come with a price, and that's a problem. For the longest time good everyday pinots were a rare find, too rare. The pendulum is swinging the other way, however, and solid pinot at $20 or less is no longer the impossible dream. This vintage of Edna Valley's Central Coast pinot noir fits the niche nicely, showing earthy plum and cherry aromas, with medium body and modest tannins. It may not dazzle you, but at $17 it's not going to disappoint, either. Rating: 87.
Tasting Notes
Bennett Lane 2013 Chardonnay, Sangiacomo Vineyard Reserve, Los Carneros ($48) -- Bennett Lane's Reserve Sangiacomo Vineyard chardonnay from 2013 is one of the most complex Carneros chardonnays you are likely to encounter. This vintage offers a gorgeous bouquet of lemon creme, spice and honeysuckle. On the palate it is rich and layered yet firmly structured, with notes of pear and baked apple. Suave and seductive, it is another stunning chardonnay from the hand of the brilliant winemaker Rob Hunter. Rating: 94.
Black Kite 2013 Pinot Noir, Kite's Rest, Anderson Valley ($48) -- Black Kite's remarkable pinot patch in the Anderson Valley is divided into distinctive blocks that each produce a stunning and unique expression of pinot noir from vintage to vintage. Then there is Kite's Rest, which is a blend of the blocks crafted by winemaker Jeff Gaffner. The 2013 is a beautiful blend that exhibits bright aromas of raspberry and strawberry, with a cola note in the background and earthy minerality. The tannins are slightly grippy, but this will resolve with time in the cellar. Rating: 92.
J Vineyards 2013 Pinot Noir, Estate, Russian River Valley ($40) -- This delicate but intensely flavored pinot from J is a welcome alternative to richer, riper, more robust pinots that get most of the love from consumers these days. Showing an earthy forest-floor nose with a hint of cola and bright aromas of strawberry and red raspberry, this is a finely tuned pinot that would match up nicely with poached salmon, roast chicken or braised rabbit. Rating: 90.
MacMurray Estate Vineyards 2013 Pinot Noir, Central Coast ($23) -- The rise in quality of inexpensive California pinot noir is nothing less than stunning. This 2013 MacMurray from California's Central Coast is a solid example, showing pretty cherry and strawberry notes with supple tannins and a long, floral finish. If you're lining up a Thanksgiving feast and want a tasty pinot to serve with the bird but don't want to break your budget, this could be the ticket. Rating: 88.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru.
About the Author
